Tourist traps Gastown, situated between the financial district and the dire Downtown eastside, is a brick-and-cobblestone warren of boutiques selling mass-produced souvenirs. A happy exception is Hill's Indian Crafts at 165 Water Street, which showcases impressive First Nations handicrafts. For the most part, the area's stores and restaurants cater to cruise-ship passengers who disembark nearby.

Tipping etiquette Service is not included in restaurants, bars or pubs, so a tip of 15% is customary, more if the service is exceptional (sticklers will calculate the tip on the net amount, before provincial tax and GST). Hotel bellboys and porters should be tipped $1 per bag. If the hotel concierge is particularly helpful, a $5 tip is appropriate.

Internet cafes Although Greater Vancouver is one of the most 'wired' areas in the world, the downtown core is woefully underserved by internet cafés. That said, there are 27 online terminals at the Central Public Library (350 West Georgia St, vpl.vancouver.bc.ca)that visitors may access for 30 minutes at no charge, or longer if user demand is low. As well, www.evalu8.org maintains reasonably up-to-date listings of local internet cafés. Right across the street from the library (at 360 Robson Street, 604 685 0877) there's a high-speed internet café called Vancouver Business Plus.

Gifts to buy You can't go wrong with leatherwear from Canada's own world- famous Danier Leather (1018 Robson Street). They also sell briefcases, belts, handbags and gloves, but this location mainly focuses on jackets. For sportier items, try Roots Canada (1001 Robson Street) – all made- in-Canada, top quality clothing and accessories.

If you're looking for the truly unique West Coast treatment, here's a real insider tip: Foster-Walker Gifts hand-selects the most choice local items for all of Vancouver's major conventions, and they will sell 'retail' – but only if you call ahead. Their Vancouver showroom is at Suite 201-1200 West Pender Street, open (by appointment) weekdays from 9am to 5pm (tel: 604 681 2456 or toll- free 800 668 8813).

For smoked salmon, the best source is Imperial Salmon House Ltd. (Full contact info in case you want to order more when you're back home: 1632 Franklin Street, Vancouver, BC Canada V5L 1P4; tel: 604 251 1114; fax: 604 251 3177; email: smokedsalmon@sprint.ca.)

For inimitable gifts unique to Vancouver, visit Vancouver Pen (512 West Hastings Street, tel: 604 681 1612), Hill's Indian Crafts (North America's largest and most varied collection of Pacific Northwest Coast First Nations' art and crafts: 165 Water Street, tel: 604 685 4249), Martha Sturdy (world-class designer of jewellery, home decor items and more, 3039 Granville Street; tel: 604 737 7822; website: www.marthasturdy.com).