Tourist traps The Seattle Waterfront is a collection of cheap food emporiums and kitsch souvenir shops looking to expediate the parting of fools from their money. Stores with names like Pirate's Plunder and Ye Olde Curiosity Shopact as warnings. You're also likely to feel had, and even smell bad, if you succumb to the oft-mentioned Underground Tour of Pioneer Square. The dark, dank and smelly nature of the experience (sewers, anyone?) can't possibly make up for the historical tidbits you might pick up.

Tipping etiquette Restaurants and other service providers (hair salons, cabbies, etc) will expect a 15% tip, although 20% is considered appropriate and not uncommon for exceptional service. Service is rarely included in the restaurant bill, except for parties of six or more, so check carefully if you're with a large group. Bellboys and porters are accorded $1 a bag, and a couple of dollars should go to the valet who parks your car. Bartenders will expect several dollars a round, though expectation is adjusted accordingly at elite watering holes. Internet cafés Many of the Starbucks cafés in Seattle are equipped with wi-fi access. You can pay as you go or buy a Day Pass if you expect to log on a lot. Aurafice Internet and Coffee Bar (616 E Pine St) on Capitol Hill seeks to be a tech-friendly arts space and pretty much succeeds. Cyber-Dogs (909 Pike Street) sells vegetarian hot dogs and internet access to its downtown customers while Online Coffee Codoes everything its name suggests in a most civilised downtown setting (1111 First Avenue).

Gifts to buy Fresh salmon (whole or filet) from Pike Place Fish (Pike Place Market, www.pikeplacefish.com) is a great way to take a slice of Seattle home with you. The gregarious fishmongers are happy to pack it up for the plane ride home. Seen on the backs of most Seattle-ites are rugged all- weather jackets from one of the well-known local outerwear emporiums. Make your purchase at REI(222 Yale Ave N, www.rei.com), Eddie Bauer (Pacific Place, www.eddiebauer.com) or Patagonia (2100 First Ave, www.patagonia.com). Selling divine indoor wear is lingerie maven Nancy Meyer (1318 Fifth Avenue), a cinch to seduce even the most fickle client.