Taxis can be hailed on the street, picked up at ranks outside most major hotels or ordered by phone. The fare is $2.85 when you enter and 45 cents for each additional mile or minute of delay. Both Yellow Cab (tel: 415 626 2345) and Veterans Cab(tel: 415 552 1300) are reliable.

MUNI: The city's municipal bus, streetcar and underground network. Dubbed 'MUNI-serable' by the locals, it's not always quite as sad as that Lloyd Webber operetta. Think comprehensive (myriad routes), not necessarily quick. Bus fare is $1.25 each way, while a cable car ride is $3 and underground fares vary by distance. Best bet may be a one, three or seven-day MUNI Passport, ranging in price from $9 to $20. Passports can be purchased at the airport or in advance online at www.sfmuni.com.