Tourist traps Fisherman's Wharf may offer picture-postcard views of the fishing fleet and the bay but much of the rest is geared toward unwary tourists and is a sure-fire rip off. Those crab cocktails and the clam chowder in a carved-out sourdough loaf? Avoid 'em. In much the same way, Chinatown has morphed into a series of kitsch-laden shops and restaurants where no self-respecting Asian would think of eating. Consider Japantown for a more authentic Asian experience.

Tipping etiquette The standard is 15% for restaurants and other service providers (hair salons, cabbies, etc.), although 20% is considered good form and not uncommon for excellent service. Service is rarely included in the restaurant bill, except for parties of six or more, so check carefully if you're with a large group. Bellboys and porters will expect $1 a bag, and a couple of dollars are the norm for the valet who parks your car. Bartenders will expect several dollars a round, although this slants higher at the pricier bars. Internet cafes Bohemia Lounge (California and Polk) and Café Quetzal (Polk near Bush) both offer internet access, as does the San Francisco Public Library on Larkin and Grove. Yakety Yak (Sutter and Mason) is a Union Square café with internet access that's open seven days a week from 7am- 10pm. A comprehensive listing of wi-fi hot spots (most of them cafés) in San Francisco is at cheesebikini.com/archives/000256.html Gifts to buy Chocolate from the Ghirardelli Chocolate Co. (Ghirardelli Square, www.ghirardelli.com) is sure to please your friends back home. Likewise, a sourdough gift basket from the Boudin Bakery (Ghirardelli Square or Macy's, www.boudinbakery.com) is a San Francisco treat. The jewellery stores of Hayes Valley (Hayes between Gough and Laguna) are the place for original and artsy baubles. This is also ground zero for the smaller San Francisco clothing designers, who sell their wares at the many boutiques along this street. Lingerie store Alla Prima (539 Hayes) insures that your return home will be memorable for the special gal in your life (and you).