Tourist Traps Elferth's Alley is touted as a well-preserved row of homes from the 1700s, but there are many similar buildings that lack the picture-snapping tourists.

Tipping etiquette Bartenders should receive a 10 to 15% tip, or $1 per drink. Wait staff generally receive a 15% tip, 20% for exceptional service. Coat check attendants receive $1 per coat, as do valet park attendants. In hotels, the bellman receives $2 per bag, $2 for opening the room; $5 for running errands. Taxi and limousines drivers should receive 15% to 20% of the fare.

Internet Cafes ING Direct Café, 17th and Walnut Streets, tel: 215 731 1410. Gifts to buy For authentic Philadelphia souvenirs, visit Best of Philadelphia (21 S Fifth St, tel: 215 629 0533). The Reading Terminal Market, located beneath a former train shed features more than 80 food stalls and other shops featuring authentic Philly fare (12th and Arch St, tel: 215 922 2317).