Tourist traps Tehran is safer than most large cities, but tourists should still be careful. Travellers should avoid flashing money and keep an eye on their possessions at all times. Only exchange money at official currency exchange centres, banks, and hotels. The unofficial money changers do not offer better rates and unsuspecting tourists are often given counterfeit money or short-changed.To be on the safe side, tourists should not take unofficial, unregistered taxis, especially late at night, but should only take registered taxis.

Tipping etiquette There is no standard for tipping in Tehran. However, you are expected to give a tip at posh restaurants or five-star hotels. Hotel bellboys and porters will appreciate a dollar or two for helping with your luggage. And make sure to give the hotel cleaning lady 10,000 or 20,000 rials (about one or two dollars) before you leave.

Internet Cafés Most hotels have Internet and there are Internet cafés on or near almost every major square in north and central Tehran. Ask around, they are easy to find. They are usually open from about 7 or 8am until midnight, but some close earlier. Iranians call Internet cafés coffeenets but, paradoxically, most do not serve coffee.

Gifts to buy Dastoo Handicraft Shop (1415 Vali-e-Asr Ave, tel: 021 2050071) is a good place to buy the best gifts from Iran. It sells handicrafts such as carpets and kilims (a pileless, tapestry-woven rug or other covering), and traditional Iranian ceramics. Iran also has the world’s best saffron, so you might want to buy a few grams to take home. Buy a Persian rug if you want to spend a bit more money.

CULTURAL DO’S AND DONT’S
Always remember that Iran is an Islamic republic and the Islamic law (Sharia) is in effect. There is a strict dress code. Men must always wear long pants and preferably long sleeves. Women must wear a hejab (headscarf) covering all of their hair and a long coat that reaches to the ankles. Women must also wear a chador (a long head-to-toe veil) when visiting mosques and shrines. Segregation of men and women who are not related or married is the norm. According to Islam, men and women who are not related or married should never shake hands or touch and should never be alone in a closed room or isolated place. Keep in mind that south Tehran is much more religious and traditional than north Tehran. Tourists should also take note that alcohol and illicit drugs are strictly prohibited in the Islamic Republic of Iran. But don’t be scared off by all this. Iranians are very friendly and hospitable to every visitor who shows respect for their culture.