Asia Europe North America Middle East / Africa

Insider Info


Having studied film in London, Qais Elias combines his job as editor of JO magazine, an English-language monthly, with work as an independent television producer in Amman.

Where do you live and why?

I’ve been living and working in Sweifieh for about seven years now and I’m not sure why, as I still manage to get lost when I’m trying to find my way around. It’s made up of a strange grid of parallel streets, and every few months they change the one-way designations in the streets so I have to re-learn the roads all over again.

What advice would you give a tourist? Any must dos?

Stay clear of Sweifieh, but don’t miss the Citadel.

What advice would you give a visiting business person?

Things take time here. It’s hard to find direct avenues all the time, you have to learn how to network.

What and where have you had your most memorable meals in Amman?

Al Quds restaurant downtown has been around for ages. Something of a tradition among Ammanites, it’s the kind of place you’ll go for a fast, hot, traditional Arabic meal. It’s also the kind of place where the waiter will carry the soup over to you with his finger in the bowl, but it’s a small price to pay for the best mansaf around.

Where would you take a client to wow them?

After about 10 years, Nai is still the place to go in Amman. A nightclub that oozes class, its Morrocan style has been imitated all over town. They have live acts several times a week and the music is usually good. Even the restrooms at Nai are cool—they’re covered floor to ceiling in mosaics.

What do you miss about Amman when you’re away?

Sweifieh (the pedestrian zone which is home to big name fashion brands).