The haunting, hard-hitting KGB Museum (2a Auku St, just off central Gedimino Avenue) run by former inmates of the KGB prison housed in the same dank basement, reveals what awaited anyone who dared to speak out against the Soviet occupation of the Baltic states. Across the road is Lukiskiu Square, where a towering statue of Lenin stood until it was pulled down in 1990.
The gold-and-silver icon of the Virgin Mary in the chapel of the Gates of Dawn, which overlooks Ausros Vartu Street, is a mecca for Eastern European Catholics. At the other end of the Old Town, the gothic St Anne’s Church is a gem among Vilnius’ dozens of stunning churches. When the French army ploughed through the region in 1812, Napoleon is said to have wanted to take it back to Paris on the palm of his hand. Another essential Vilnius site is Gediminas Tower, which provides good views of the Old Town. It’s the only remaining part of a 13th-century castle built by Grand Duke Gediminas after he saw an iron wolf howling there in a dream. Down below, behind the classical-style Cathedral, is a 100-million-dollar building site ambitiously trying to recreate the medieval Royal Palace before the city’s millennial celebrations in 2009. Heard much by Frank Zappa? Neither have the Lithuanians. But that didn’t stop them erecting a statue to the psychedelic rock singer, who gained cult status in the Soviet Union’s dying years. It’s the only one in the world, apparently. Find it behind the health clinic at 1 Kalinausko Street.
Excursions
For plenty of ideas and practical information, drop into the Tourist Information Centre (22 Vilniaus Street, Website: www.tourism.lt, Tel: 262 9660).
Trakai The stunning island castle set in a lake by the picturesque village of Trakai is the obvious choice for a trip out of town. It is best reached by car and the journey takes about 20 minutes. It’s also possible to get there by bus and train.
Vilnius City Tour For sightseeing tours in English around the city (and to Trakai), Tel: 2615 558 or Email: guide@takas.lt.
Lithuania’s sandy coastline is four hours’ drive away. The spectacular Curonian Spit and fishing villages like Nida are calming getaways, while the popular resort of Palanga is crowded with sleepless hedonists in summer. Good accommodation can be arranged, and in summer should be booked in advance.
Soviet sculptures of Stalin, Lenin and other communist all-stars have been resurrected at Grutas Park near the lush spa town of Druskininkai, 150 kilometres from Vilnius. It’s under two hours’ drive away.
A reputable bunch of French experts pinpointed a spot 20 kilometres north of Vilnius as being the geographical centre of Europe. The Lithuanians have since brought in world-famous sculptors to create mammoth-sized artworks in the grounds of Europe Park, easily reached by car. The actual centre of Europe is just up the road, marked by a star-crowned column.