Culture vultures should head straight for the Museumpark. The impressive permanent collection at the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (Museumpark 18-20, tel: 441 9400, www.boijmans.rotterdam.nl) includes work by Rembrandt, Van Gogh,Gaugin, Monet, Magritte and Dalí.
The Kunsthal (Westzeedijk 341, tel: 440 0300, www.kunsthal.nl) is housed in a cutting-edge, modern building and hosts all manner of edgy, temporary exhibitions. The Netherlands Architecture Institute (Museumpark 25, tel: 440 1200) is the third major museum in the park, and has an extensive architectural library and much-admired temporary exhibitions.
A stay in Rotterdam would be incomplete without a trip round its world-famous harbour. Soak up the rustic charm and historical buildings of Veerhaven, where the pilgrim fathers set sail for America, and then head for the trendy cafes, clubs and restaurants in Wilhelminakade.
The Maritiem Museum (Leuvehaven 1, tel: 413 2680. www.maritiemmuseum.nl) explores Holland’s rich naval tradition, and the Harbour Museum next door has a historic collection of ships including the steamboat de Buffel.
Rotterdamers are renowned for their love of music, culture and clubbing, and the city plays host to festivals throughout the year. In June, audiences are literally engulfed by film, theatre and music during the inverse-circus cultural festival of De Parade (www.deparade.nl). The Zomercarnaval at the end of July kick-starts the summer months with a splash of colour, followed by a string of balls, concerts, competitions and comedy acts during the Zomerpodium, which runs into August (www.zomerfestivals.nl).
Excursions
Book a city tour by bike, bus or just on foot with Rotterdam Archiguides (www.rotterdam-archiguides.nl) to explore the city’s built heritage from the famous prewar New Building School of Architecture to the latest urban developments in the Kop van Zuid regeneration zone.
The stark beauty of the landscape around Kinderdijk is made all the more evocative by the 19 windmills that line the canals, dug behind the tall dykes of the Lek river. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, this is an unmissable and authentically Dutch experience. To get there, hop on a local train from Rotterdam Central Station to Rotterdam Lombardijen and then catch the number 154 bus.
For a more active day of cycling and walking, mixed with art, architecture and sculpture, take a train to Arnhem and jump on bus number 2 to the KröllerMüller Museum (www.kmm.nl), which is set in the Hoge Veluwe National Park (www.hogeveluwe.nl). Multi-millionaire Dutch-German couple Helene and Anton Kröller-Müller left their extensive estate, exquisite Berlage-designed hunting lodge and incredible collection of Picassos, Mondriaans and van Goghs to the Dutch people 70 years ago. Today, it is one of the most popular day-trip destinations in the country, with a fleet of free, white bicycles, abundant wildlife, stunning sculpture park and impressive modern art museum. Although Gouda’s cheese is one of Holland’s most famous exports, the Dutch wouldn’t dream of eating the rubbery stuff sold in British supermarkets. So make sure you take home some real, aged Gouda, by making the trip up to the town of its origin, which is only a 20-minute train ride from Rotterdam. Check out the compact, fairy-tale 16th-century centre ringed with canals, the spectacular stained-glass windows in the late-Gothic Sint Janskerk and the cheese-weighing house, De Waag.
Delft’s ancient charm and world-famous pottery is definitely worth a day-trip in the winter, but best avoided in the summer when it is inundated by coach-loads of day-trippers. Soak up the regal splendour of the small town and the views from De Kolk, immortalised by its most famous resident, Vermeer.
De Candelaer outlet (Kerkstraat 14, tel: 213 1848) is the best value if you’re thinking of buying some distinctive blue-and-white ceramic pieces. Although Rotterdam is about as urban as it gets in Holland, every available inch of green space is a blaze of floral colour in spring and the weather and temperature is usually pleasant. Summer can be sticky and August, especially, is best avoided, as the locals vacate the city to go on holiday only to be replaced by hoards of tourists. All life retreats indoors during winter as the sea air makes it damp and cold and any snow soon turns to grey sludge.