The Vatican Museums and St Peter’s Ba-silica, which were originally private papal palaces, form the largest museum complex in Europe. Exhibits range from classical sculpture to modern art but the core of the collection hails from the renaissance and baroque periods. Artists such as Raphael, Botticelli and Michelangelo are all represented, the latter of course by the world-famous Sistine Chapel ceiling. Awe-inspiringly opulent, St Peter’s Basilica, the centre of the Catholic faith, took 120 years to build—and when you enter you will see why. Bernini designed much of the interior and is responsible for the architecture of the square outside. Michelangelo’s Pieta is tucked away in the front right-hand corner. For opening times, visit http://mv.vatican.va
The Vittoriano, an enormous white monument to Italy’s first king, has been given a variety of nicknames in its 120-year history. The liberating British army knew it as the wedding cake and local tradition has dubbed it the typewriter. Inside you will find special exhibitions of major world artists. Recent exhibits have included Paul Klee and Edgar Degas with tickets costing around €10. Tel: 678 0664 for information.
Ancient Rome You can’t come to Rome without facing the tourist hordes outside the Coliseum. Probably the most striking and recognizable emblem of classical Rome, Emperor Vespasian’s amphitheatre is one of the best preserved structures of antiquity. Equally impressive are the ruined pathways of the Roman Forum and the atmospheric cypress groves of the Palatine Hill. The Forum is free and open from 9am until sunset. Buy a joint ticket for admission to the Coliseum and the Palatine Hill for €8, from the Palatine entrance (Via San Gregorio 30) to avoid the queue at the Coliseum.
The Pantheon Eerily well preserved, stepping into the Pantheon can feel like stepping back in time. Hidden away in a piazza surrounded by a network of tiny alleyways, this 1,900-year-old structure is breathtaking. The interior can sometimes be unbearably crowded but there is no entrance fee and sights include Raphael’s tomb. Open from 8.30am to 7.30pm.
Underground Rome On the surface Rome is a surprisingly small city, but what we see on street level is simply the tip of the iceberg. Go to Nero’s Golden House, Domus Aurea, and the Church of San Clemente to glimpse the hidden city.
Once the family home of the powerful Borghese family, the Galleria Borghesemuseum contains an impressive range of sculpture and paintings. Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s works are a particular treat. Entrance is on the hour every two hours (9am–5pm) and tickets cost €8.50. Reservations are strongly recommended, Tel: 32 810.
Rising above the Circus Maximus towards the banks of the Tibur Aventine Hill boasts an array of churches and gardens. The early-Christian Santa Sabina dates from AD425 and combines an unusual mixture of architectural styles and periods.
Excursions
There are a variety of tour companies that offer itineraries of the city, some more reliable than others. Many offer free tours of either the Forum or St. Peter’s before selling you paid tours of other sites such as the Coliseum and Vatican Museums. These range from excellent informed guides to below-standard amateurs. One company, which offers more than your standard tour guide, is Context:Rome. They call their guides ‘docents’ and refer to their tours as ‘walking seminars’ so expect an in-depth itinerary, Tel: 482 0911 or visit www.contextrome.com. Eternity also offer an excellent range of walking tours. Visit www.througheternity.com.
Ostia Antica A 30-minute train ride from Rome, Ostia was the main Roman port from the 4th century BC until its decline in Medieval times. It is a classic example of a Roman town, with amphitheatre, baths, mithraeum temple and the oldest standing synagogue in the world. Take the train from Stazione Porta San Paolo, just off Piramide Metro Station with the standard €1 BIT ticket.
Tivoli 20 miles north-west of Rome you will find the small town of Tivoli. In Roman times it was the country get-away of the aristocracy and a number of villas can be visited today. The most impressive is that of Emperor Hadrian whose house and garden complex covers 300 acres and was designed by the Emperor himself. The Renaissance Villa d’Este is equally impressive. Take the train from Tiburtina Station (Metro line B) to Tivoli for €5–€8 return.
Appian Way This ancient Roman road originally stretched from the southern outskirts of the city to Brindisi, a major port on the heel of the Italian Peninsula. Nowadays, the section from the Catacombs of San Callisto to the Tomb of Cecilia Metella is the best preserved. This atmospheric cypress-lined road makes an ideal half-day walk, following the route the Romans took to bury their dead. Take Metro A to Colli Albani and then the 660 to Cecilia Metella.
Naples and Pompeii A 13/4 hour train journey will take you to one of the world’s most fascinating cities. The Archaeological Museum contains many of the artefacts found at the nearby excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. These sites can both be visited after a further 30-minute train ride south of the city. Return tickets from Rome to Naples cost from €33–€65. From Naples to Pompeii/Herculaneum costs from €2–€5 return on the local train service.