KEY AREAS
Old Town Cobblestones, imposing churches, baroque architecture, statues, a 15th century clock—welcome to the fairy-tale of Prague. The gem in Prague’s proverbial crown, this is where most people fall in love with the city.
New Town Rougher and more tumble, here is where you’ll find shopping like Zara and H&M, as well as cafés and restaurants that won’t leave you for broke.
Zizkov A seedier district of Prague, it’s also one of the coolest for the artsy, more creative types. One of the city’s best cocktail bars is hidden in this area, as well as one of the best clubs and student-cheap restaurants Akropolis (Kabelikova 27, Prague 3, Tel: 296 330 911). Expect dreadlocks and dogs here.
Mala Strana One of Prague’s most romantic quarters, this is a walker’s paradise. Some excellent restaurants and cafés are hidden on these slender streets. This isn’t so much a place to shop as a spot to relax in and have an enjoyable conversation with a friend.
Hradcanska Seduced by the feel of a nearby castle? If so, spend your time in this part of Prague. Some nice guesthouses and hotels are in this area, as well as cafés. Touristy, but peaceful.
GETTTING AROUND
The most effective and cost efficient modes of travel are your own two feet, particularly when meandering through Old Town, New Town and the Jewish Quarter. During busy traffic hours, stick to trams and metros to get you through the city. Tickets are Kc 14 for one transfer and Kc 20 for two transfers. Taxis, of course, are your quickest bet after peak hours. If you hail a taxi on the street, expect a Kc 30 fee to hop in the car, plus Kc 22 per kilometre to your destination and Kc 4 per minute for waiting.
SHOPPING
Parizska is where those who like to spend a lot of money on style can do so. With Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and others, it is an adorable little street with an incredible amount of credit card persuasion. For high-street names like Zara, H&M and Benetton, head for Na Prikope. It’s also a great street on which to find a new and reasonably priced tie before that big meeting in Prague.
A city’s fashion scene can give you more of an understanding of its culture than any history book, so you mustn’t leave until you check out the Dlouha neighbourhood. About four female designers are housed here and create some truly beautiful pieces, from evening to casual wear. There are also a few interior design boutiques that are worth looking at.
Celetna is the place to buy glass and crystal. From cubist tea cups to champagne flutes, all styles and prices can be found here.
GIFTS TO BUY
If you are charmed by the influence of Alfons Mucha, you should check out Art Decoratif (U Obecniho domu 1, Prague 1). Here you’ll find jewellery, lamps, vanity sets and other exquisite pieces that were designed by Mucha’s granddaughter, but are a testament to his work. This is a pricier present, but the status and the craftsmanship make these gifts very special.
The Czech Republic isn’t a food culture or a fashion culture, it’s a drinking culture. Two of the most prized liquids are Bekerovka, a secret-recipe liquor, and of course absinthe, something of a science experiment for the mind. These drinks can be bought nearly everywhere, including Tesco.
Creepy or cute? Funky or freaky? The jury is still out on marionettes. The artistry, however, is indisputable. Find the best around at Obchod pod Lampou (U Luzickeho Seminare 5, Prague 1).
It takes a certain eye to fancy cubism, but if you do, Prague will be good to you. Kubista (Ovocny trh 19, Prague 1), which is below the Cubist Museum and café, sells stunning vases and tea sets— geometry has never been so sexy. These are expensive gifts, but most appropriate for that special person.
THINGS TO DO
Regardless of the season, Petrin Hill is a gorgeous place to visit. If you’re here during the summer, pack a picnic and take a ride up the funicular to enjoy the view of the city. If there’s snow while you’re here, buy a sled and let your inner child discover Prague.
Check out the amazing Miniatures Museum (11 Strahovske Nadvori, Prague 1. Tel: 233 352 371), where the artist Anatoly Konenko has painstakingly put a shoe on a flea and written the Lord’s Prayer on a strand of hair. You’ll need to look through a magnifying glass to believe it.
Even if you’re not an architecture buff, you’re sure to become an enthusiast after a few days in Prague. The Muller Villa (14 Nad Hradnim Vodojemem, Prague 6) was built in 1930 by Adolf Loos, who amazed people with his ability to design a home that has rooms of different heights because they are centred around an imaginary vertical axis.
When meandering through Old Town, check out Bethlehem Chapel (4 Betlemske Namesti, Prague 1, Tel: 224 248 595), the spot where Jan Hus preached between 1402 and 1412. His sermons were in Czech so they could be understood by ordinary people. Later burned at the stake, he inspired a revolution.
Unless you’re dying for a caricature of yourself, avoid the Charles Bridge during the day. Instead, take an evening stroll when there are fewer tourists.
Cubist art mainly took the form of sculptures and paintings. In this country, however, the cubist movement was defined in architecture. The House at the Black Madonna is the oldest and most famous example in Prague. Inside you’ll find a great bookstore and museum (Celetna 34, Prague 1).
EXCURSIONS
Just outside Prague’s city limits is Pruhonice, a gorgeous village that has everything you need for an enjoyable day trip—delicious international cuisine in modern restaurants, a splendid rambling garden and a 13th century chateau. You can get here by cab, but it’s a lot cheaper to take the C Metro to Opatov and then hop on a bus.
If you like the Pilsner of the Czech Republic, you must make the 90kms trip to Plzen, the capital of West Bohemia and the home of this special brew. Although you can look around the brewery, the best tour in the city is the underground labyrinth. Walk through the tunnels constructed between the 13th and 19th centuries.
An hour outside Prague by bus (Na Knizeci stop) you’ll find Pribram, a town that dates back to the 12th century. A royal community turned mining town, Pribram is where you’ll find early Czech baroque style at the Church of the Virgin Mary, and the country’s largest mining museum at H Klicky 293. Also check out the work of one of the country’s best photographers, Frantisek Drtikol, who was born here (Gallery of Frantisek Drtikol, 106 Tyrsova).
If there’s a town with skeletons in its closet, then it’s Kutna Hora, 60kms east of Prague, reachable by a train that leaves hourly from Hlavni nadrazi station. The town has an incredible bone chapel decorated with 40,000 skeletons, including bone chandeliers. This ossuary is open daily 9am-noon and 1pm-4pm. Other places worth checking out here include the Czech Silver Museum and Medieval Mine (Barborska 28) and the Cathedral of St Barbara (Kostel Sv Barbory).
THINGS NOT TO DO
At times the entire city seems like a tourist trap, but the two main target areas are Wenceslas Square and Old Town Square. Places you should visit for sure, but like a dinner party that you don’t want to attend, go in, say hello and get out. Unlike most dinner parties, however, these areas feature fondling prostitutes, bums and pick-pockets.
CONVENTION CENTRES
Prague Congress Centre, 5. kvetna 65, Prague 4 (Tel: 261 171 111, www.kcp.cz, Email: kcpinfo@kcp.cz). Holding 20% of all conferences that take place in Prague, the Congress Centre caters to every need, from a hall that has a capacity of 2,764 to 50 smaller meeting rooms with a wide variety of floorplans. This is where the International Monetary Fund and World Bank Conference, as well as the NATO Summit Conference, were held—so there is also room for thousands of protesters if that is a concern for your business needs. Located only 2-3kms from the city centre, any hotel in Prague 1 is reasonably accessible.
Exhibition and Facilities Department, Obecni dum Municipal House, nám. Republiky 5, Prague 1 (Tel: 222 002 132, www.obecnidum.cz, Email: mtycova@obecnidum.cz). One of the most breathtaking buildings in Prague, this is also the place to spoil your clients with a bit of style and during a conference.