The Cyprus Museum, close to the old city on Museum Street, is a compact gem with pottery, sculptures, and jewellery displaying a history of Cyprus from 6,000 B.C to the Byzantine period. A walk around the 16th century Venetians walls, the best remaining example of town defences of the period. An observatory at the top of the Shacolas Tower on Ledra Street provides a panoramic view of the occupied areas, but a better view goes with the café on the 6th floor.

Excursions
Far and away the favourite day trip is to the island’s most sumptuous monastery, Kykko, set 1,250 metres up in the Troodos mountains, with rooms full of icons. The tomb of Archbishop Makarios III, the first president of Cyprus, is above the monastery on a hill providing some of the best views of the island. The Troodos has mountain villages like Kakopetria, much favoured for their fine local cuisine.

Gifts to buy
Halloumi, goat’s milk cheese with its own particular flavour, Filfa, a speciality local organge liqueur, and Loukoumi, which was called Turkish Delight before the invasion of 1974.