Shops in Madrid organise their opening hours to suit the long Spanish lunch—so most close between 2pm and 5pm, and then stay open until around 8pm–9pm, although department stores and the big high-street chains stay open all day. The department store El Corte Inglés, which has become a national institution, stocks everything from food to traditional gifts (Calle Preciados 1–4 and branches). Right opposite is Fnac (Preciados 28) selling books, CDs, videos, Spanish and foreign magazines and newspapers, computers and software. They stock a good range of fl amenco music.

For designer fashion go to the Barrio Salamanca area: Calles Serrano, José Ortega y Gasset and adjacent streets (Metro: Goya or Serrano). As well as the usual international suspects you will also find Spanish designers at much more reasonable prices, such as Purificación García (Calle Serrano 92), Adolfo Dominguez (Calle Serrano 18), Agatha Ruiz de la Prada (Calle Serrano 27) and Victorio y Lucchino (Calle Lagasca 75). Don’t miss Loewe (Serrano 34) for the ultimate in leather bags, shoes and clothes. Loewe is world famous, the quality is superb and the prices are suitably high! For more leather in the form of handmade shoes go to Albaladejo (Claudio Coello 73) for conservative styles for men and women and quality rarely found today. The area around Calle Fuencarral and Chueca is the place to go for younger, funkier clothes shops and boutiques. The area around the Puerta del Sol is the heartland of high-street fashion. There is a lot of tourist trash and kitsch available in Madrid—from velvet bulls to plaster statues. But some of the more interesting tourist shops can be found in the narrow streets around the Plaza Mayor (See Gifts to Buy). If you want to shop for food products go to the traditional local markets. Mercado San Miguel (Plaza de San Miguel) provides a feast for the eyes, as well as the taste-buds.

Last but not least, El Rastro flea market (Calle Ribera de Curtidores, Metro: La Latina) held every Sunday for the last five centuries is worth a visit; if more for the atmosphere than the products on offer.