When the weather is warm everyone heads to Hamburg’s beach clubs, which line the Elbe River. The Strandperle, a café located in front of the row of quaint sailor’s cottages in Oevelgoenne, is an institution. Closer to town, take your pick from the Hamburg City Beach Club, Café Lago and Hamburg del Mer, all situated on Große Elbstr.
A stone’s throw from the main train station is Hamburg Kunsthalle, one of Germany’s largest museums, with stunning architecture that refl ects the combination of art periods housed inside, from Old Masters to contemporary artists. The cube of light that rises from the ground is breathtaking (Web-site: www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de). For more contemporary art and photography, head to the Deichtorhalle (Deichtorstrasse 1-2, Website: www.deichtorhallen.de).
If you like a bit of a song and dance, Hamburg is Germany’s undisputed musicals capital. The extravagant Disney musical The Lion King continues to draw tourists from all over Germany, as does Mamma Mia! For tickets visit Hamburg’s tourism centre or Theater im Hafen (www.stage-holding.de).
If the leafy gardens around the Outer Alster Lake don’t satiate your appetite for parks, head for Planeten un Blomen. Here visitors can enjoy the old botanical gardens and tropical greenhouses where rare and exotic plants are cultivated. It also boasts Europe’s largest Japanese Garden, which is an oasis of tranquillity (www.planetenunblomen.hamburg.de).
The Hamburg State Opera (the Staatsoper, Dammtorstrasse 28) stages traditional operas as well as contemporary works. John Neumeier’s brilliant ballet company is in residence. Find out what’s on at www. hamburgische-staatsoper.de.
Excursions
The Island of Sylt is Germany’s northern-most point, lying off the north-western coast in the North Sea. A favourite weekend get-away for Hamburgers, the island boasts some lovely sandy beaches and stunning views, as well as shops, spas and exclusive restaurants. Its main town, Westerland, has become a popular seaside resort.
Lubeck lies 65km north-east of Hamburg, close to the Baltic coast. Not only is this historic town the home of a couple of noted Nobel Prize winners, but it won UNESCO World Heritage List status as a living monument to the wealthy Hanseatic merchants of the 13th century. Steeped in history as it is, Lubeck isn’t just a museum piece but a vibrant city.
Lüneburg This salt town lying south of Hamburg, is where the Middle Ages truly come alive. Ancient lanes and houses, and a historic town hall provide insight into the roots of northern German culture. Students ensure that this university town is buzzing with lively cafés, bars and book stores. BlankeneseIf you don’t want to stray too far from Hamburg, take the ferry from Land-ungsbrücke to Blankenese. This wealthy district boasts a mixture of elegant turn-ofthe-century villas, old fishermen’s cottages, and sweeping parks. Once you’re done walking through the district’s small narrow lanes, take a seat in one of the numerous cafés and enjoy views of the ships coming in and out of the harbour.
Boat trips There are few better ways to understand Hamburg than by taking a trip around the impressive harbour. The Hadag line (Tel: 3178 2231 for the English-language tour) and other companies organise round trips of the port lasting about one hour for €8. The boats and barges leave from the Landungsbrücken, piers 1, 2, 3 and 7. Alternatively try Barkassen Myer, which leaves from piers 2 and 6.
When you’re down at Landungsbrücken, step into the visitors’ center between piers 4 and 5 (www.hamburg-tourism.de).
When strolling through the Speicherstadt, the warehouse complex built of red brick with gables and turrets, make sure to stop at the Harbour City Information Centre, (Am Standtorkai 30, Website: www.hafencity. com). Hamburg is building Hafen City, an ambitious 25-year project to transform the city’s old harbour into Germany’s premier living and working area.
Sightseeing bus tours with guides who narrate in English and German, leave from Kirchenallee by the main train station, and from Landungsbrücken by the water every 30 minutes. A bus tour lasting 90 minutes costs €13. For €20, one of the bus tours can be combined with the two one-hour boat trips on the Alster lake and the Elbe river. Departure times vary according to season (www.hansa-rundfahrt.de). Yachting enthusiasts will be thrilled with the Outer Alster Lake, whose 7km circumference is also a favourite with joggers. Or get even closer to the water by hiring a canoe. Go to Bootsverleih Wielengowski (Isekai 13, Tel: 473 461) for the canals, and Alfred Seebeck (An der Alster 67a, Tel: 247 652) for boats and canoes on the lake.