There has been a lot of talk about ‘the new Prague’ or ‘the new Florence’, but in fact, Cracow is very much its own place. Once the capital of the largest and most democratic country in Europe, Cracow remains Poland’s cultural capital, even if Warsaw is now the seat of government. But the city is much more than just a treasure trove for culture vultures. The café and bar scene is vibrant and dining out – a sorry affair as little as five years ago – has improved radically. One of the most exciting things about visiting Cracow now is in experiencing a city in transition, from the splendid streets of the Old Town to the arty charm of Kazimierz.