John Paul II Airport (or Balice airport as it is also known) is the city’s main gateway for air travellers. This small airport is located approximately 10 miles from the centre of Cracow.
Taxi There’s a taxi rank immediately in front of the main exit. Rates are between PLN 30 and 40 to the city centre.
Car Cracow is clearly signposted as you leave the airport. It’s not a major highway and the journey should take about 20 minutes.
Bus Bus number 192 departs every half hour from the stop 50m to the right of the main entrance. Tickets cost PLN 2.90.
which also includes an entertaining column by an expat writer. Both publications can be found in most newsagents. Try the big Empik store on the main market square.
The website www.cracow-life.com also publishes a free bi-monthly calendar of events – you’ll probably find a copy in your hotel.
Tourist traps
Restaurants on the square, such as Wierzynek, make a big play of their centuries-old tradition (as do cafés such as Noworolski), but don’t be taken in by such hype. Some of the newer restaurants serve considerably better food in less stiff surroundings (see the ‘Eating out’ on p484).
Tipping etiquette
Tipping is in many respects a new thing. However, in the more upmarket restaurants waitresses have become accustomed to tips, and 10% will be very much appreciated. It’s worth knowing that if you say ‘thank you’ as you lay down your cash, quite often the waitress won’t return to give you your change, placing you in the embarrassing situation of having to reclaim a portion of your money. But don’t be afraid to track them down, as waitstaff will often try their luck!
Internet cafés
Cracow has an ever-expanding galaxy of internet cafés. The best is in the U Louisa cellar of the swish new mall on the Market Square (Rynek 13). Smoking is allowed here, so steer clear if you can’t stand puffing neighbours. Another good option is Nandu at Ul (Wislna 6). If you have a laptop, most of the smarter hotels offer internet connections in the bedrooms, as do an increasing number of cafés.
Gifts to buy
If you’re buying for a woman, a handbag from Batycki makes a lovely gift – their sleek store can be found in the palatial new mall on the main Market Square (Rynek 13). Similarly, amber jewellery is a good Polish option. Try one of the Mikolajczykishops at the foot of the Royal Castle (ul. Kanonicza 22).
Krosno offers beautifully made glassware at marvellously low prices. This pre-war firm survived the communist era and continues to go from strength to strength. You can find its shop on the main Market Square, just north of St Mary’s church.
A bottle of Polish vodka can also make a fine present. Zubrowka (bison grass vodka) is one of the oldest and is excellent served neat – always frozen – or with apple juice and a slice of lemon. Another speciality is Krupnik, a delicious honey liqueur. In winter you might pick up a bottle of the delicious local, mulled wine, Grzaniec Galicyjski. Once you’ve got it home, just add a few cloves and heat.
Tram You can buy tram tickets from kiosks dotted about the city and from tobacconists. A one-way ticket costs 2.20 PLN. Once on the tram, make sure you stamp your ticket in the little machine – as inspectors do occasionally appear and go on a fining spree. If you’re in a rush, you can also buy a ticket from the driver, but bear in mind that Poles prefer correct change.
Bus Tickets are bought and punched in the same manner as those for trams. Buses are useful if you are interested in visiting Nowa Huta (although trams go there too), or if you’re taking a day trip to Ojcow Park or the Auschwitz Museum. Tickets are inexpensive.
Taxi In Poland, if you book a taxi beforehand you save 10%. Ring 9662 and they can usually send a taxi over in minutes.