Barri Gòtic Barcelona’s oldest and most romantic quarter, the 'Gothic neighbourhood’ sits just off Las Ramblas. With tiny plazas, cobblestone streets, narrow alleyways and a variety of architectural styles including (but certainly not limited to) Gothic, this is an ideal area for strolling. The cathedral and several important museums are located in this area, as is the Town Hall (Ajuntament), the regional government’s headquarters (Generalitat) and important archaeological ruins. Bits of the city’s Roman defence wall can be spotted outside the cathedral, and the remains of a Roman temple are hidden away in a building nearby. The Barri Gòtic is also home to lots of quirky shops and some of the best restaurants and bars in the city.

La Ribera/El Born This medieval neighbourhood, the 'waterfront’, is actually a 10-minute stroll from the beach, though at one point in time it was considerably closer to the shore. Formerly a business-oriented textile district, it’s now Barcelona’s trendiest quarter and is packed with chic boutiques, sophisticated wine bars and upscale restaurants. It’s also one of Barcelona’s premier nightlife hotspots—bars and discos come alive after midnight on and around the central Passeig del Born. But don’t overlook the area’s cultural offerings: the elegant and svelt Basílica de Santa María del Mar is Gothic, and it’s the city’s prettiest church. The Picasso Museum, located just a block away, and the Palau de la Música Catalana are also must-sees.

Ports and La Barceloneta Barcelona has three large ports, the Port Vell, the Port Olímpic and El Forum. The first two are the most often visited and are fabulous places to stroll on a sunny day or to go jogging or roller-blading along the shore. In between the two ports is the gutsy working-class district of La Barceloneta, the old fishermen’s quarter that’s home to plenty of seafood restaurants and grungy tapas bars. The beaches past the Port Olímpic are the city’s cleanest (though that’s not always saying much) and most popular. Las Ramblas Barcelona’s famous pedestrian boulevard, Las Ramblas, is the city’s stage for the weird and wonderful. Human statues, street performers, artists, vendors, craftsmen, fortune tellers, beggars and others line up and down this busy street, creating non-stop entertainment for passers-by from Plaça Catalunya down to Port Vell. Be sure to hold tight to all your belongings—this place is popular with everyone, even pickpockets.

El Raval Barcelona’s most international neighbourhood, El Raval is a melting pot of Catalans, Spaniards, Africans, Asians, Europeans and Americans. It has been a marginalised neighbourhood since it was first created and populated by poor workers, and even now it’s one of the city’s shabbiest corners, with plenty of street prostitutes and junkies. But those problems don’t stop the Raval from being a fabulously international, fascinating place. Artists’ galleries, unique boutiques and one-off restaurants abound, especially around Carrer Elisabets and near the MACBA, Barcelona’s temple to contemporary art. Do watch your belongings, but don’t shy away from visiting a unique area.

L’Eixample The huge grid-like district that connects old Barcelona with the outlying neighbourhoods, called 'the extension’, was created to be a utopian city, with wide boulevards bordered by low houses, gardens and trees. The reality, however, is slightly different. Now L’Eixample is a busy, cramped district devoted to business, shopping and residences, a far cry from the peaceful quarter intended when construction got under way in the mid-19th century. Still, L’Eixample has a lot going for it, namely the wealth of Modernist masterpieces that are found here. Antonio Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, Casa Battló and Casa Milá (aka La Pedrera) are all here, as are works by Doménech i Montaner and other notables. L’Eixample is also known for its high-end shops. Passeig de Gràcia, the district’s main thoroughfare, is lined with designer boutiques and fashionable stores. Montjuïc Whether you prefer jogging, strolling, biking or just soaking up the view, this large tree-covered hill is a fabulous area for enjoying the outdoors. The 1992 Olympics were responsible for the area’s total rejuvenation, and these days Montjuïc is full of gardens and trails as well as huge sports venues, like the Olympic stadium. There are also several of the city’s top museums here, including the National Museum of Catalan Art and the Joan Miró Foundation, and the Poble Espanyol, a mock Spanish town now filled with boutiques and artisans’ workshops.

GETTING AROUND

Driving can be hectic in Barcelona and parking is expensive (upwards of €2.20 an hour in the centre). Your best options are walking and using the city’s ample public transportation system. Walking is a pleasant way to get around, although you’re likely to be distracted by the abundance of shops, cafés and city life around you.

If you’re in a hurry, hop on the metro or a city bus (both €1.15 per ride). It takes just three minutes to zip down Las Ramblas on the metro, a stretch that will take you 15 minutes or so to walk. Save money by buying a T-10 pass, which gives you 10 rides on either the bus or metro for €6.30. Or opt for an unlimited one-day pass for €4.80. The passes are good for use on all public transportation except for tourist buses like the Bus Turistic sight-seeing bus, speciality buses such as the Aerobus airport bus.

SHOPPING

If you like to shop, you’ll love Barcelona. This is the place to find whatever your heart desires, be it artisan-made jewellery and accessories, chain-store bargains, high-end fashion, the latest in design or great food and wine.

Each neighbourhood has its own shopping style. For designer labels at designer prices, head to the glamorous streets of L’Eixample, where international labels such as Chanel (Passeig de Gràcia 70) and Hermés (Passeig de Gràcia 33) rub shoulders with Spanish names like Roberto Verino (Passeig de Gràcia 68) and Josep Font (Carrer Provença 304). This area is also great for cutting-edge designer goods. Vinçon (Passeig de Gràcia 96) is a temple to trendy, while BD Ediciones de Diseño (Carrer Mallorca 291) has classy yet vanguard furniture and home accessories.

For one-off shops and creative souvenirs, Barri Gòtic is the place. It’s ideal for window shoppers or bargain hunters who love to take their time exploring. Although chain stores dominate on major shopping streets like Portaferrisa, most of the quarter is filled with an eclectic mix of been-here-forever and too-trendy boutiques. For those with a sweet tooth, try one of the area’s famous sweets shops, like Casa Colomina (Carrer Portaferrisa 8). Art lovers can find great local art at Sala Parés (Carrer Petrixol 5), while those bent on tradition will love the Spanish-style shawls at L’Arca de L’Àvia (Carrer Banys Nous 20). Nearby, in the Plaça del Pi, you may find an open-air market selling artisan food and art.

For unique clothing by local designers, you’re best bet is La Ribera/El Born, where young designers like Mertxe Hernández have opened shop (MTX Barcelona, Carrer Rec 32). A few streets over, find original jewellery at 0.925 Argenters (Carrer Montcada 25).

GIFTS TO BUY

The best gifts go beyond the touristy Barcelona T-shirt—widely available on Las Ramblas—and the typical Barça scarf, sold at newsstands all over the city. For foodies, try a wine from the local region of Penedès (available at wine shops like Vila Viniteca, Carrer Agullers 7-9), or rajoles, a bar of chocolate made to look like a Barcelona sidewalk tile (available at Enric Rovira, Avinguda Josep Taradellas 113). Those with a sweet tooth might also like the fanciful hand-made candies from Papabubble (Carrer Ample 28), or a wearable, high-fashion candy ring from Escribà (Gran Via 546).

Take home a literal piece of Barcelona with a bag or wallet by Demano. Its colourful designs are made out of used signs that once hung in the city. They’re available at accessories shops and places like Vinçon (Passeig de Gràcia 96), a temple of design and another good place to find unique gifts. For fashionistas, check out the offerings by Barcelona-based designers like Josep Font (see above) or Julie Sohn (Carrer Diputació 299).

THINGS TO DO

Barcelona’s greatest mark on the artistic world was made by the Modernist movement, which saw its heyday at the turn of the 20th century. Led by designer and architect Antoni Gaudi, a creative genius whose works were inspired by the natural world, the Modernist movement’s core value was beauty, and its goal was finding ways to showcase beauty in everyday life. Gaudí’s works, while justifiably too unique to be labelled anything, even Modernist, are the most impressive here. Be sure to visit his masterpiece-in-progress La Sagrada Familia (Carrer Mallorca 401, www. sagradafamilia.org). Also make time for the fanciful Park Güell (Carrer Olot 7, www.bcn.es/parcsijardins), where you can enjoy great city views among Gaudí’s colourful tiled landscape, and La Pedrera (Carrer Provença 261, http://obrasocial. caixacatalunya.es), which houses an interesting museum about Gaudí and his work.

Museu Picasso (Carrer Montcada 15-21, www.museupicasso.bcn.es) is dedicated to the early works of Malaga-born Picasso, who studied and had his first exhibition in Barcelona. The museum building, a beautiful Renaissance palace, is worth admiring in its own right. The Joan Miró Foundation (Parc de Montjüic, www.bcn.fjmiro.es) shows the full gamut of Mallorca-born Miró’s works in an airy museum on Montjüic.

The futuristic white building housing the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona or MACBA (Plaça dels Àngels 1, www.macba.es) is as interesting as the contemporary art showcased inside. Barcelona’s Gothic Cathedral (Pla de la Seu, www.catedralbcn.org) is the heart of the Barri Gòtic—you can’t miss the hulking stone building with its spire piercing the blue sky. Gawk at the grandiose interior and take a slow stroll around the lush cloister, where there are running fountains and white geese.

If you’re craving time out in the sunshine, head to one of Barcelona’s many city parks. The large Parc de la Ciutadella, on Passeig Picasso, is a fabulous place for strolling or picnicking. It’s also home to the city zoo (www.zoobarcelona.com).

Of course, most people’s favourite Barcelona pastime is simply soaking up the atmosphere in its streets, shops and cafés. Check out www.barcelonaturisme. com or www.bcn.es for more ideas.

EXCURSIONS

Barcelona is surrounded by pretty towns, open countryside and historic enclaves. The following destinations—all within 90 minutes of Barcelona—are only a few of the many day-trip possibilities. For more information and ideas, contact the Catalunya Tourism Office at the Palau Robert (Passeig de Gràcia 105-107, www. catalunyaturisme.com).

Boasting one of the prettiest seafronts in all Spain, Sitges is a stately resort town just 20kms south of Barcelona. Drive down or take the train from Plaça Catalunya or Sants stations to enjoy a day on the beach, a paella lunch and great shopping. Stay on to experience the town’s famous nightlife scene, which is centred around the aptly named Carrer del Pecat (Sin Street). Sitges is famous for its gay-friendly attitude and its fun carnival celebration in February. In summer in gets very busy. Visit www.sitgestur.com.

The spiritual heart of Catalunya and a symbol for the region, Montserrat (Serrated Mountain) is an oddly-shaped rock massif that’s drawn pilgrims ever since a black statue of the Virgin Mary was discovered in a cave here in the middle ages. There’s now a large, functioning monastery, a museum, a beautiful basilica and tourist-friendly paths criss-crossing the mountain. This area is also popular with hikers and mountain climbers. Trains to Monistrol de Montserrat leave regularly from the Plaça Espanya FCC station. From Monistrol, take the cremallera (a rack-and-pinion railway) the final 15 minutes up to the monastery. Transportation information and visitors’ details at www. montserratvisita.com.

TOURIST TRAPS

Avoid the restaurants along Las Ramblas. For the most part, they’re overpriced and understaffed, and many serve pre-fab food that’s anything but traditional or authentic, as they advertise. Likewise, avoid the pricey Wax Museum, also on Las Ramblas, and think twice before boarding one of the harbour tours leaving from Port Vell.

CONVENTION CENTRES

Barcelona is one of southern Europe’s most popular congress and convention locations, and it’s well-equipped to handle large-scale events. The main convention venue is the Fira Barcelona (www.firabcn. es), a 240,000 square metre centre at the base of Montjüic, beside Plaça Espanya. The Plaça Espanya metro and FCC train stops provide easy access to the city centre. There is also a convenient underground parking lot just in front of the Fira. The Fira’s newest addition is the Fira M2, located a short drive away. While there is bus access and parking for nearly 2,000 cars, there is no metro access to the Fira M2. Hotels located near both Firas include the Hotel Catalonia Barcelona Plaza and the Hotel Fira Palace (see hotel listings below).

Barcelona’s newest convention venue is the CCIB (Centre Convencions Internacional de Barcelona, www.ccib. es), located on the city’s northern shore in the new Diagonal Mar district. Easy to reach by public transportation, this huge modern facility is the largest convention centre in southern Europe. Nearby hotels include the AC Barcelona and the Barceló Hotel Atenea Mar (see hotel listings)