For the last half of the 20th century, Athens was a city uneasy with itself. Dominating its skyline was the Acropolis, an instantly recognisable symbol of its glorious past. At the same time, it was also indicative of a far less impressive present that had turned the Acropolis, Lycabettus and the other ancient landmarks into islands besieged by a concrete jungle of runaway urban development. High-rise blocks jostled for position above a city that was overcrowded, noisy, congested and polluted. So much for the 20th century. Enter 2004, the year of the Athens Olympics, and the city is suddenly transformed. It has acquired highways to relieve traffic problems, more greenery, a brand new metro system and tram, and a general ‘facelift’ that makes life in Athens much more pleasant. None of this new efficiency has interfered with age old Greek traditions, including that of eating, drinking and having fun long into the night; Athenian nightlife is often still going strong as the sun rises over the Parthenon.