Athens city life is strongly seasonal, due to the sharp contrast between the searing summer heat and its cool, temperate winters. Because of this, many theatres and even the Athens Concert Hall tend to operate only during the winter months. In the summer, open-air theatres like Lycabettus or the ancient Herod Atticus Odeon beneath the Acropolis open up. Here the performances booked by the Athens Festival, which range from dance and theatre to popular music, are held from May to September. Check for tickets and information at the box office (Panepistimiou 39, Tel: 210 928 2900). Tickets for open-air concerts and other summer festivals, as well as winter-time gigs, can be found at Ticket House (Panepistimiou 42) or Ticket Hellas (Panepistimiou 64, Tel: 210 618 9300).
Take a day out to rediscover ancient Athens by strolling through the newly created ‘archaeological park’ that runs through the city. This links the major monuments and archaeological sites with pedestrian roads and parkways that strive to recreate, as closely as possible, the atmosphere of antiquity without the intrusion of the modern city. Be sure to visit the Museum of Cycladic Art (Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki) and its permanent collection of enigmatic Cycladic idols dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. Also see the National Archaeological Museum, which has one of the largest collections of ancient Greek antiquities in the world. For more recent Greek history visit the renovated Byzantine and Christian Museum (Vassilisis Sofias 22, Kolonaki) for new insights into the mysterious Byzantine era. Also well organized is the Benaki Museum (Koumbari 1, Kolonaki), which recently acquired a section on Islamic art. Art lovers will enjoy the National Gallery, the Fryssira Museum (Monis Asteriou 3–7 & Kydathinaion, Plaka), the DESTE Foundation of Modern Art (Omirou 8, N. Psychiko) and the National Museum of Contemporary Art, currently exhibiting at the Athens Concert Hall (Vas. Sofias & Kokkali, Tel: 210 728 2333).
Excursions
One of the classic destinations for a day trip is Delphi, home of the legendary oracle of antiquity. Tucked halfway up the southern slopes of Mount Parnassus, Delphi has some impressive ancient sites and archaeological remains, and spectacular mountain views. There are several organized tours to Delphi from Athens.
In summer time, the cosmopolitan islands of Hydra, Poros and Spetses are just a short hop by hydrofoil from Piraeus and you can easily travel to them independently. For faster-paced fun you can try the slightly longer haul to the celebrity island Mykonos, though you really need at least a weekend to make the round-trip worthwhile.
Another must during the summer is a trip to Epidavros and its legendary ancient theatre, which comes alive at the weekends with performances of classical ancient Greek drama. Check dates and book tickets at the box office (Panepistimiou 39, Tel: 210 928 2900) in Athens. Also worth visiting are the nearby ruins in Mycenaeand the port town of Nafplion, with its impressive hilltop fort.
For excursions closer to home head out to Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon on the southernmost tip of Attica. Aim to get there just before the end of the day to catch one of the fabulous Sounion sunsets. You can also combine this trip with a visit to the seaside, stopping at any one of the beaches along Attica’s extensive south coast. A day at the beach along the northeast coast, alternatively, can be combined with a visit to the Temple of Artemis in Vravrona or the Marathon Tomb. A good place to escape the summer heat are the caves at Peania, often described as Europe’s most beautiful. There is no public transport there, so a taxi or a car is necessary. The caves have an impressive quantity of beautiful stalactites and stalagmites.