American Peter Underwood is a director at IRC Limited, a consulting firm advising foreign companies in Korea. He is also the last Seoul-based member of arguably the most illustrious foreign family in Korean history—his great-grandfather Horace was one of the first foreign missionaries to arrive in Korea, in 1885. He founded Yonsei University and even shielded the last independent Korean king, Gojong, from potential Japanese assassins.Where do you live?
On Yonsei University campus (in Sinchon). I inherited the right to live there. It’s fantastic—there are trees all around, it’s 5C cooler than the city in summer and it’s bloody beautiful. I live in the same neighbourhood as did as a kid. Now there are all kinds of good restaurants and live music cafés, and it’s just a 10-minute drive from downtown.
What would you advise a tourist?
Look around. There is a lot of traditional Koreana even in Seoul, it’s just not well advertised or easy to find. So you may need to look a bit harder than in other cities, but it’s still there, despite war and development. It’s in the old part of town, north of the river, between the old city gates.
What advice would you give a visiting business man?
Plan your trip before you come. Make all your appointments in advance, then reconfirm them when you get here. Once here, when talking with Koreans, speak slowly. Ask the same question two or three different times to make sure they understand you and answer. Avoid yes or no questions.
Where must you eat?
The best restaurant I have ever been to is Daewongak, but they turned that into a Buddhist monastery years ago. Now I would say Seokparang is the best. It’s set in a traditional Korean house, the food is excellent and, although it’s a bit pricey, everyone I have taken there has liked it.
Where would you take a client to wow them?
Any place where you have very good connections and where they know and respect you. We take our clients to the Millennium Hilton. And speak a bit of Korean—Koreans are very impressed by foreigners who speak it, so that’s a wow factor for locals right there.
What do you miss most about Seoul when you’re away?
The hustle and bustle. And kimchi, of course. I tell Koreans that if I don’t have it for a week, my hands start shaking!