Business contacts

Mobile phones In Seoul, every man and his dog has a cell, so be sure to hire one. There are pricey hire services at the airport and hotels. For a cheaper alternative, contact Sky Rent (Tel: 552 1818, website: skyrent. netian.com, email: anyjeong@yahoo.co.kr). It has a phone delivery service.

Car hire Visitors are not advised to drive in this city. They will get lost (half the streets are one-way), frustrated (Seoul driving is a cross between Formula 1 and gridlock) and, in the unlikely event of reaching their destination, will probably find nowhere to park. But if you feel you must, most of the international chains are represented at the airport, and you can check out the local Hertz affiliate at www.kumhorent.com. Office rental and secretarial services If you’re north of the river, try the highly-praised Executive Centre in the Seoul Finance Centre Building downtown (Tel: 3782 4888, email seoul@executivecenter. com). South of the river, try Pivot Point Business Centre in the ASEM Tower in the COEX Centre (Tel: 6001 3000, Fax: 6001 3003, website: www.pivotoffice.com).

Local press

There are three local English-language newspapers. The top seller is The Korean Herald (www.koreaherald.co.kr), although many expatriates prefer the International Herald Tribune, which comes with a local insert, the JoongAng Daily (joongangdaily. joins.com). The number three is The Korea Times (www.koreatimes.co.kr). There are also a couple of expatriate/ visitor-focused free magazines. Seoul is produced by the city and includes features on the place, the people and the culture. Seoul Classified focuses on expatriate entertainment. The JoongAng Daily has an exhaustive ‘what’s on’ listings guide.

If you have time, visit the Seoul Foreigners Help Centre (in the municipal building in the town centre, near City Hall subway).

Internet

Seoul is probably the most wired (and wireless) city on Earth. Internet cafés, or PC bangs (literally ‘PC rooms’) are found in virtually every neighbourhood, fully fitted with ultra-high-speed broadband connections. However, they’re not really appropriate for business use. If you really need to work, it’s best to go to a hotel business centre. Some coffee shops, such as Starbucks, offer free internet usage.

In the town centre, the Korea National Tourism Building and the excellent City Hall Help Centre offer free internet access. In Sinchon, one internet café with MS software is Golbaengi PC Bang (Tel: 334 6249, open daily 24 hours).

Many points in the city have wi-fi—hotels, office buildings, etc. However, location is the thing: for example, many hotels will have wi-fi, but only in lobby areas. Call in advance to ensure that it’s available.

Money

The local currency is the won. At the time of writing, the currency is valued at approximately 1,860 won to the pound.

All major credit cards are widely accepted. Banks are open 10am-4.30pm on weekdays. Many ATMs in the city centre will accept international credit cards or even international bank cards though, oddly, they close after 10pm.

Bargaining is a dying tradition. In shops, prices are marked, and the only place where haggling still occurs is in the traditional markets and in some shops in the tourist ghetto Itaewon.

Tipping etiquette

Tipping is thankfully neither common nor expected in Korea—which may explain the brusque service one often receives. However, the hotels and a handful of top restaurants will add 10% service charge (as well as 10% VAT) to your bills.

Visa/vaccination

For a short trip, you shouldn’t need a visa, but for a longer stay you may require one. The rules vary according to your country of origin, so check with your Korean consulate. No vaccinations are required, but hepatitis B is endemic in South Korea.

Public holidays

The two major public holidays are Buddha’s birthday and Chuseok, or Korean Thanksgiving, when the country shuts down for several days. They follow the lunar calendar, so can vary.
1st January - New Year’s Day
1st March - Independence Movement Day
5th April - Arbor Day
5th May - Children’s Day
15th May 2005, 8th-9th April 2006 -Buddha’s Birthday
6th June - Memorial Day
17th July - Constitution Day
15th August - Liberation Day
17th-19th September 2005, 5th-7th October 2006 - Chuseok
3rd October - Foundation Day
25th December - Christmas Day

Weather and climate

Korea has four distinct seasons. A good time to visit is spring (March to June), when the country is blossoming and skies are clear—as long as the dreaded ‘yellow dust’ blown from China’s Gobi desert doesn’t blanket the city. Autumn is even better: the air is mild and bracing and the countryside is an explosion of colour as the leaves on the mountainsides turn gold and brown. In contrast, summer is hot, muggy and very wet and winter is cold and bleak.

Suggested reading

The Koreans: Who They Are, What They Want, Where Their Future Lies by Michael Breen (1998), written by a former journalist and long-term expat, it offers a good introduction to the society, history and business scene.

Korea’s Place in the Sun, by Bruce Cumings (1998), is a reader-friendly history of modern Korea. It focuses on the extraordinary suffering the Korean people have undergone in recent history.

For businessmen, Troubled Tiger: Businessmen, Bureaucrats and Generals in South Korea, by Mark Clifford (1998), is essential. The book charts the country’s rise from the ashes of war and shines a revealing light on its commercial scene. For something completely different, try the novel Red Queen, by Margaret Drabble (Harcourt, 2004).