History

Seoul became the nation’s capital after a power grab 100 years before Columbus reached the New World. In 1392 a highly ambitious general, Yi Seong-gye, overthrew the Koryo (meaning ‘high mountains, sparkling waters’, from which comes the modern name ‘Korea’) dynasty, crowned himself King Taejo and established the Joseon (‘land of morning calm’) dynasty. To make a break with the past, he relocated the capital—then in Gaesong, in today’s North Korea—to what is now Seoul. Not only did Seoul sit in the very centre of the peninsula but, with its mountains and river, it also offered excellent feng shui. The city has since survived invasions by the Japanese (16th century) Manchus (17th century) and North Koreans and Chinese (Korean War). Due to the brutal street fighting of the latter conflict, and the subsequent no-holds-barred development, most buildings are relatively modern, although the downtown area features lovingly restored palaces and city gates. Although Japan colonised Korea from 1910-45, few traces of this period remain. Koreans consider this the darkest time of their history, and have pulled down most reminders of it.

Religion

Some 26% of Koreans who state their religion are Buddhists, while another 26% are Christian. At night, Seoul’s sky is lit up by thousands of red neon crosses on the spires of churches. Old Buddhist temples are generally located in mountain areas around and outside Seoul, although modern temples—identifiable by their reverse swastika symbol—are common.

There are also a number of minority folk religions and a small Muslim population, largely composed of migrant workers and Korean labourers who formerly worked in the Middle East. However, Korea’s dominant social philosophy—focusing on male primacy, family and group values and social conservatism—is a brand of neo-Confucianism that is more strongly entrenched here than in China.

Economy

South Korea is has the world’s 10th highest GDP and is the number three player in Asia after Japan and mainland China. Per capita GDP, in purchasing power parity terms, is [00a3]9,200. Major sectors are semiconductors, shipbuilding, automobile manufacturing, petrochemicals, telecommunications devices and consumer electronics, although factories cannot now be built in Seoul. Conglomerates like Samsung, LG and Hyundai are renowned worldwide. There are also surging exports of cultural products—film, TV dramas, music and games—around Asia. Today, South Korea seeks to leverage its geopolitical location between Japan, China and the Russian Far East to promote itself as the financial and commercial hub of North-east Asia. But some foreign businessmen here still see a distrust of market economics, a heavy regulatory hand and mistrust of overseas investment as possible barriers.

Politics

Seoul is South Korea’s seat of government. The National Assembly sits on the island of Yeouido, in the Han river. After being freed from 35 years of Japanese colonial rule in 1945, Korea went through the fratricidal Korean War and a succession of military governments. It finally became a democracy after nationwide ‘people power’ protests just prior to the 1988 Olympics. There are two major political parties in the unicameral legislature. Most ministries are located in and around Seoul, but the current government has controversial plans to relocate many of these around the country to reduce overcrowding and over-centralisation. Because Seoul is the governmental, administrative, cultural and educational centre of Korea, the city and its surrounding area house a staggering half of South Korea’s 48 million people.

Population

Korea has a young—mean age, 33—but highly homogeneous population. There is an ever-growing expatriate population but, as many of these are illegal, it’s impossible to gauge their number. Estimates range as high as 500,000. The expatriates include a relatively small number of highly paid foreign businessmen and diplomats, 32,500 US troops, a large number of young English-language teachers, and several hundred thousand immigrant workers from developing countries. Unlike virtually every other city in Asia, Seoul lacks a significant Chinese population. Most left due to discriminatory policies in the ’60s and ’70s, although approximately 20,000 Korean-Chinese remain nationwide. There are also some 6,000 North Korean defectors.