Key Areas

Mumbai is so crowded that only locals can truly discern where neighbourhoods begin and end. Nevertheless, the island city can be separated into four distinct areas. South Mumbai Also known as ‘town’ to the locals, and whose inhabitants are called ‘townies’, this is the region west of the train tracks from Colaba—the southernmost tip of the island—to Dadar in mid-town. The best restaurants, hotels and landmarks can be found here. Central Mumbai Once upon a time, most of Mumbai’s European immigrants lived and worked here. Unfortunately, this area east of the train tracks on the southern part of the island has since become hideously overcrowded and run down. Most of Mumbai’s big bazaars—Zaveri Bazaar, the jewellery district, Chor Bazaar, the ‘thieves’ market for antiques and furniture, and Crawford Market—are all in this area.

Western Suburbs Everything west of the train tracks, north of South Mumbai, but centred around the ritzy ‘suburbs’ of Bandra and Juhu, this region has been colonised by the film and television industry and will soon catch up with fashionable South Mumbai with regards to the number of restaurants and hotels. The Bandra Kurla Complex is also the new centre for Indian business, traditionally located in South Mumbai’s Nariman Point. Eastern Suburbs Now a source of economic growth and the site of Mumbai’s call centres and other IT industries, the Eastern Suburbs still lag behind the rest of the city in terms of tourist attractions and are largely avoidable.

Getting around

A chauffeur-driven car hired through your hotel is really the smartest way to get around. Don’t even dream of driving around yourself: the traffic follows rules that are impossible for a non-local to negotiate. Locating addresses in Mumbai can be bewildering because, over the past decade, nationalist governments have renamed major colonial landmarks and roads. The locals couldn’t care less; they continue to use the old appellations. Your hotel concierge should be a reliable source of help.

Non-air-conditioned yellow and black taxis are an extremely reasonable, nimble but hot way to traverse city streets. The catch is that they go by a meter which is outdated. Hence, every cabbie carries a T-card, showing the conversion from the rate displayed on the mechanical meter to the current price. Insist on seeing this card. Tipping is uncommon. Mumbai also has some air-conditioned ‘cool cabs’ which have electronic meters that display the correct fare.

Avoid mass transport means like trains, auto-rickshaws and buses. They are unbelievably congested at all times of the day.

Shopping

Mumbai is a shopper’s delight. While a globalised economy has ensured it has all the international luxury brand names, the real joy lies in savouring India’s handicrafts. Indian Textiles in the Taj Mahal Hotel sells beautiful hand-woven silk fabrics by the metre and also has wonderful shawls. The Taj’s Burlington’s does nice silk shirts for men and women and will custom-tailor almost overnight. For exquisite sterling silver home accessories, the Ravissant Boutique is a must. The Oberoi Hotel has its own separate shopping arcade in an annexe. From here, buy silk shirts and scarves for women at Christina’s and at Ritu’s Boutique.

Neighbouring Colaba Causeway has a string of shops, with handicrafts, silver jewellery and gift items. Bargaining is a must. The Courtyard, near the Taj Mahal Hotel, is home to some of India’s finest fashion designers, such as Rohit Bal and Manish Malhotra. Ensemble, at Lion’s Gate, stocks expensive but exquisite haute couture designer fashion—its owner has dressed the likes of Jemima Khan. In Mumbai Central, the Phoenix Mills Complex is an old mill-turned-trendy shopping mall, whose many boutiques and retail stores mainly sell clothing. But don’t expect the flavour and ambience of the Causeway shops. In the Western Suburbs, in Bandra, the Linking Road shopping area is the place for shoes and casual clothing.

Gifts to buy

In the Colaba area, off Strand Cinema, there is a line of fairly reliable silver shops with exquisite handicrafts. Silk scarves and shirts can be picked up from shops in most major hotels and make good gifts. Cottage Industries Emporium, just by the Gateway of India, and Bombay Store (Dadabhai Naoroji Road) are excellent for handicrafts and hand-made paper as well as speciality Indian incense and teas. As the name suggests, Contemporary Arts and Crafts (19 Napean Sea Road) has an outstanding range of eclectic Indian craftwork at very reasonable prices. The nearby Bhulabhai Desai Road shopping area has three big stores: Benzer, Amarsons and Eternia, stocking Indian bangles and costume jewellery, fabrics and saris. Fraser and Haws (Landmark Building, off Turner Road, Bandra) is great for sterling silverware at a wide range of prices. Its small silver idols of Indian gods and goddesses, beautifully packaged and priced, make cherished gifts.

Things to do

A guided bus or car tour of Mumbai, taken from your hotel, will give you a good feel for the city. Alternatively, Bombay Heritage Walks (Tel: 2683 5856) organises walking trips through 20 precincts, giving you an authentic insight into the city’s architectural styles: Fort Gothic, Portuguese-style Bandra villages and Marine Drive art deco, among others. The Kala Ghoda area, close to the Taj Mahal Hotel, is a haven for artists. Check out the Jehangir Art Gallery, Mumbai’s most famous art gallery, opposite Elphinstone College on Mahatma Gandhi road, Fort (Tel: 2284 3989). It’s open 11am-7pm daily and, if you have time, graze at its delightful Samovar Café.

The Prince of Wales Museum and the National Gallery of Modern Art, all in the same area, give you a glimpse into the ancient and modern arts of India. After you’ve done with shopping at Colaba Causeway, enjoy a beer at Café Mondegar or a very local lunch at the Leopold Café or Café Churchill. Right behind the Causeway, you can find both the Taj Mahal Hotel and the Gateway of India, offering a picture-postcard vista of Mumbai. Drop in at the art deco Eros cinema and watch a Bollywood film. Three hours long, its larger-than-life tableau of music and dance, romance and melodrama is a fascinating escape from reality. Rhythm House (Subhash Chowk, next to the Jehangir Art Gallery) is an audio and CD store that also sells tickets for musical events, English and regional language drama, as well as dance and music performances across the city. Almost every night of the week some of India’s best musicians and dancers play at Mumbai venues. The National Centre for Performing Arts (Tel: 2283 3838) is a large theatre complex in Nariman Point and is one of the main venues for classical concerts and plays. Check newspapers or Time Out Mumbai to see what’s on.

Excursions

At the Gateway of India, on the Apollo Bunder promenade, right by the Taj Mahal Hotel, ferry across to the Elephanta Caves, whose rock-cut cave temples display exquisite ancient sculptures from the Hindu pantheon. Ferries also leave from the Gateway for the beaches of Alibaug, Kashid and Murud-Janjira.

Hop across by road to the hill station of Matheran, where vehicles are banned. Hence, part of the journey can include a two-hour ride on a narrow gauge railway, but we infinitely prefer the very pleasant 45-minute trek on foot. Bond with nature at a former British Raj residential bungalow, now converted to a charming hotel called the Verandah in the Forest (website: www.neemranahotels.com/ verandah). It offers heavenly relief from Mumbai madness at unbelievable value.

If you have the time, take a plane ride (45 minutes) to the Ajanta and Ellora rock-cut caves, just outside the city of Aurangabad, famous for its hand-woven Paithani saris. The caves, with their exquisite Buddhist paintings and sculptures, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and are awe inspiring. Goa, further down the west coast from Mumbai, with its great seafood, pristine beaches, unique blend of Portuguese and Indian culture and wonderful resort hotels, is only an hour or so away by plane.

Tourist traps

Stick to the well-known shops for any serious, expensive shopping, as getting goods exchanged or returned if there is a defect could be difficult otherwise. Mumbai has many shops claiming to sell ‘real silver’, but most of them don’t.

Bargain hard in the bazaars and street-side shops if you really like something.

A complete no-no is eating food from a road-side stall, where hygiene may be a problem. It’s prudent to always ask if water served in a restaurant or at a private home has been boiled. If you’re worried, only drink bottled mineral water.

Convention centres

Mumbai doesn’t have any large-scale, stand-alone, convention centres. The Renaissance Hotel, Powai, and The Grand Hyatt, Kalina, are the most popular hotels for conventions.