Business contacts

Directories Infomedia Yellow Pages, commonly known as Tata Yellow Pages, is the definitive directory in Mumbai.

The entire directory is online at www. yellowpages.co.in and available by telephone—the Yellow Line, Tel: 2436 6666. For more ‘concierge-style’ enquires, call 2888 8888—its operators are often able to help with directions and local listings. Most mobile phone companies offer hotlines and short message services (SMS). They usually charge a minimal fee for their services.

Mobile phones India primarily uses the GSM network on the 900MHz band, so most mobile phones are compatible. Try to bring your phone with you. Rental services are new and often require a deposit of about [00a3]60-[00a3]125. Prepaid SIM cards for your GSM phone are easily available from any one of the myriad dealers and general stores. Most can be refilled over the phone by credit card. The major GSM phone providers are: Hutchison Essar (Orange, Tel: 5664 5000, website: www. orange.co.in) which offers rent-a-mobile; BPL Mobile (Tel: 98210 99800, website: www.bplmobile.com) usually has the best roaming rates; Bharti Group (Airtel, website: www.airtelworld.com).

Local press

Every national newspaper has a Mumbai edition, including The Times of India and The Indian Express, both of which are headquartered here. Mumbai also has several local papers, the most useful of which is the Mid Day. Every weekday, the paper publishes an insert called The List that carries art, cinema, restaurant and theatre listings. An indispensable publication is the fortnightly arts, entertainment and lifestyle magazine Time Out Mumbai, which has over 500 events listed in every issue. It is part of the international Time Out group, with publications in over 40 cities worldwide (website: www.timeoutmumbai.net).

Internet

Most internet cafés, known in Mumbai as cyber cafés, are transient creatures.

The connectivity offered is poor and visitors are better off using hotel business centres or laptops. Tel: 2888 8888 for good cyber cafés in your area. Be careful not to browse adult sites at internet cafés—doing so is a crime. The Mumbai Cyber Crime cell is one of the best in the world and is always conducting spot raids. Cyber café rules also keep changing, so be sure to carry your passport when visiting one as you may have to register. Wi-fi and 802.11 services don’t really exist here yet.

Money

The currency is the Indian Rupee and the current exchange rate is approximately Rs78 to [00a3]1. International credit cards, such as Visa, Mastercard, Diner’s and American Express, are accepted in major establishments. In general, and especially in the smaller stores, bazaars and street markets, cash is still king. Banks’ official opening hours are 10.30am to 3pm, though some banks with international branches do open earlier and close later.

Tipping etiquette

10-15% is the accepted norm in upmarket establishments. If you’re staying in a five-star hotel, bellhops expect tips of Rs50 (63p) or Rs100 ([00a3]1.25). In modest restaurants, staff don’t expect a tip, but it’s common courtesy to leave small change. Taxi drivers aren’t accustomed to tips, but it’s not uncommon to round up the fare to the nearest denomination of five or 10. Always negotiate beforehand with porters in airports and train stations.

Visa/vaccination

All visitors need a visa. Contact the Indian embassy or high commission in your home country before arrival. A master directory of embassies is available at http:// indiaimage.nic.in/embassies. Visa rules and application forms can be obtained from http://passport.nic.in.

Business visas are usually issued for three or six months. To get a visa, you’ll need a passport valid for at least six months, two passport photographs, a completed application form and the fee. Expect a slow-moving line at Immigration on arrival, but it’s not much quicker for Indian nationals.

A valid yellow fever certificate is mandatory for all persons (including infants) who have been, even in transit, in Africa, South America or Papua New Guinea in the past six days. The certificate becomes valid 10 days after vaccination. It’s not compulsory, but the UK Department of Health recommends protection against hepatitis A, typhoid (though not for short stays in first-class conditions) and malaria.

Public holidays

India—and Mumbai is no exception—is a land of festivals and ancient religious customs that are still a very charming part of its social fabric. While the list below cites the official national holidays, it is always wise to check before you come whether there are any local holidays during your trip.
21st January — Bakri Id
26th January — Republic Day
8th March — Mahashivaratri
25th March — Good Friday
26th March — Holi
9th April — Gudi Padwa
14th April — Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Jayanti
18th April — Ram Navami
22nd April— Mahavir Jayanti
23rd May — Buddha Purnima
15th August — Independence Day
19th August — Parsi New Year
7th September — Ganesh Chaturthi
2nd October — Dasera
1st November — Divali, Hindu New Year
5th November — Ramzan Id (Id-ul-Fitar)
15th November — Guru Nanak Jayanti

Weather and climate

In two words: hot and humid. Fortunately, the Arabian Sea keeps the temperature from varying wildly and provides some succour through its sea breezes. The best time of year to visit is in winter, from November to February, when temperatures vary between 23C and 30C. The summer months of April, May and June are unbearably hot, with temperatures in May soaring as high as 42C. July, August and September are the monsoon months, when the city is pounded with sheets of rain and can come to a halt as a result.

Suggested reading

Bombay, The Cities Within by Sharada Dwivedi and Rahul Mehrotra (1995, India Book House).

City of Gold by Gillian Tindall (1992, Penguin).

From Bombay to Mumbai by Behram Contractor (1998, Oriana Books).

Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found by Mehta Suketu (2004, Penguin).