when to sing for your supper

No matter how much research you do in preparation for your visit to the Middle Kingdom, nothing can compare with first-hand experience in dealing with Beijingers. Whereas bar culture does exist in Beijing, it is still in its infancy. The ‘dinner’ is what makes or breaks a deal or a friendship. With all the dishes on a circular table—the norm for a large party—and with each guest dipping in and out of a plethora of bowls and plates, loud conversation is unavoidable. Restaurants are bright and noisy—the good ones are at any rate. However, eating is the easy part.

It is only a few years since beer sales exceeded that of bai jiu (white alcohol). Comparable to Irish Poitín in that it exceeds European health and safety regulations for sheer potency, bai jiu plays an integral part in any Chinese banqueting experience. The meal is constantly interrupted with toasts to various parties at the table, standing with glass in outstretched hand, a quick gan bei (‘dry the glass’) and a triumphant slam on the table as you re-seat yourself. This ceremony occurs a number of times during the evening.

It is considered most rude to refuse a drink, unless your face has turned a hue similar to that flag in Tiananmen Square. Luckily it is now OK to refuse a cigarette after making references to your health.

With the eating and drinking drawing to a close, the bill is ordered. This often becomes a scramble with all and sundry fighting over who gets to pay. First voices are raised, followed by pushing and shoving as hands are reached into pockets to withdraw the required amount of cash. When all matters of finance are taken care of, you’d better hope that you’ve brought your singing voice along with you as you pull up outside a KTV (karaoke) hall in your black VW or Audi.

KTV halls in the city have all the trappings of a four-star hotel, with red carpets, concierge and 24-hour service. Once in your private room, expect a bottle of Hennessy XO or VSOP to appear alongside a platter of fresh fruit, water melon being the weapon of choice. The singing can go on for hours; many businessmen practise during the lunch hour to perfect their performance.

Eventually the singing does draw to a close, as you hope your deal has, depending on how you managed your glass at the table. You have been warned.