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Toronto / Dining / Latin


 

In the midst of a street crowded with restaurants near the Eaton Centre, this smart, Portugal-centred spot is often packed. Three cosy booths seat up to five, and a corner table offers a commanding view. Strengths include fresh fish, delicate grilled sardines and lobster. Rack of lamb has a macadamia crust and a port wine jus. Skip dessert and end with a glass of good Port. Excellent servers will guide you through the lengthy Portuguese wine list.

 

Happily, the menu, décor and genial wait staff haven’t changed much over the years. Chillis impart zip to sauces, and this venerable Latin American does many things superbly; abundant Creole salad, a melting trio of spicy crab croquettes and grilled salmon. Sensational tart and creamy key lime pie for dessert. Reasonable wines in the $35 to $40 range.

 

With its ambitious menu of regional Mexican dishes, this affordable downtown restaurant rises above cheese-drenched nachos and other Tex-Mex atrocities. Familiar tacos and fajitas are fun, but do try the dark, complex mole sauce enrobing chicken breasts. Coriander and pozole soups are also recommended from the large menu, as is beer or tequila over wine. A mariachi band livens up Saturday nights. Service is attentive and eager to please. For dessert, cajeta enriches a pecanstudded sauce spooned over ice-cream- filled crepes.

 

Portuguese chef Albino Silva’s fish is so fresh, while you sip a morning latte your dinner is being caught off the coast of the Azores. Which leads to sky-high prices at his elegant Chiado, definitely worth a visit. Next door, Silva has added this handsome and wallet-friendly tapas bar. Salted cod is light and delicate, marinated in olive oil, cilantro and fresh tomato. Steamed clams glisten in an herb and garlic broth, perfect for mopping up with chewy Portuguese cornbread. Locally-made chorizo sausage are another revelation, as is the gargantuan grilled tiger shrimp with fiery piri piri sauce.