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The baby of Drew Nieporent of Nobu fame, Earth and Ocean is a sophisticated take on surf'n’turf within the confines of the gotta- love-black W Hotel. Partake of the warm Dungeness crab with a Meyer lemon sauce and the delightful braised pork three ways with cranberry beans and sauteed greens. Pastry chef Sue McCown is sassy as ever with treats like 'Sex, Love and Apricots’ while sommelier Marc Papineau makes all the right calls. Ask for a window table since the restaurant is quite dark.
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The most talked-about opening of the past year is a simple, snug eatery in a post-industrial corner of Capitol Hill. The baby of enterprising young chef Johnathan Sundstrom, Lark showcases small plates that are a cut above and prepared with a very light hand. Revel in dishes like the baby beets and frisee in a tangerine oil and the mussels, served piping hot in a crock and tossed with bacon, apple and shallots. The wines, like everything else, are exceedingly reasonable. No lark here – this place is here to stay.
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The decor at this Belltown hot spot is much like the food – bright and modern. Lime green and orange walls play against the modern canvases that adorn them and on the plate, chef Scott Staples’ artistry extends to warming dishes like the braised veal cheeks with spaetzle and prosciutto ham and organic braised Kobe beef with soft polenta and roast tomatoes. The wait staff is efficient and knowledgeable. Smart trendies come here to check out the food and each other, and a visit for any reason is smart, indeed.
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Union may be aiming for the downtown power lunch crowd but it’s likely to attract foodies in the process. The contemporary decor is clean and bold (a tomato red wall to whet your appetite) but the real revelation is 29-year-old chef Ethan Stowell’s food. This self-taught cook could teach a few tricks of his own with his divine parsnip soup served over a dollop of truffled crème fraiche and the roasted black cod with an artichoke puree and braised leeks. Sensible prices help make this the table of the moment.
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