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Houston / Dining / Mexican


 

Mayan chicken salad is the lighter version of chicken Belize – both bring out the best of what must be free-range chicken breast with zesty pineapple salsa and the creamy crunch of fried plantains. Every dish matches sweet with spice to complement quality meats – fans of these family own restaurants talk about fruit flavours, such as mango salsa, but the butcher deserves his due.

 

A party-centric Tex-Mex tradition is back and better than ever. Owner Rico Valencia has returned to share his signature salsas and sense of fun. Many have spent happy nights at the Cyclone, with no more than sterling margaritas or ice-cold beer to wash down endless baskets of crispy salted tortilla chips and a salsa or two for dipping. A full menu is offered, and there’s every reason to take advantage – perhaps order extra cheese and chopped onions on everything for the full gringo experience.

 

The squash-flower quesadillas make grown men weep – imagine what the rest of the menu can do. Tracy Vaught and Chef Hugo Ortega surprised fans of their folksy Backstreet Café with this dramatic homage to Ortega’s heritage. Texans eat goat meat all the time, but none compares to the cabrito here – cooked till it’s soft as pudding with a crackle crust begging to be eaten with your fingers. Ruben Ortega’s dessert list is not to be missed. Note: the wine list includes a page of sipping tequilas.

 

High ceilings, heavy mahogany, and arched windows overlooking the bayou create a gracious ambience that makes any man feel he’s a Latin lothario. Save the seafood dishes for dinner – with the exception of simple grilled fillet, 'del mar’ selections are too rich for lunch and it's impossible to fully appreciate the paella in an hour. Dinner is a leisurely, genuinely Spanish affair with live flamenco guitar and time to savour traditional Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes.