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Eastern love of new world ingredients is celebrated with a silky, savoury pumpkin- based seafood soup. Though it seems silly to tout the soups of this glittering, gee-gaw filled upscale eatery, the fact is the kitchen shows a deft hand with broth-based dishes, incorporating just enough fat for sheen and blending ingredients so each flavour awakes the others. Start with a soup and then sample the menu’s subtle pleasures.
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Tucked into a strip mall between a car dealership and a half-empty office tower, this is a gem. Boisterous Cantonese family dining and food prepared with imagination and skill keep the locals (the densely Chinese population of southwest Houston and the rest of the city) packing Mr Fung’s lively restaurant night after night. If you’ve been timid about shellfish served with the mantel or fried whole fish, please try Fung’s. Everything that comes out of the kitchen, no matter how alarming it may look to western eyes, is scrumptious.
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So this frisky newcomer is more Viet[name]se than Chinese, so what? Jenni Tran-Weaver is happy to be all things to all hungry people. Need a Jewish mother? Infernal Chicken, a coconut-curry soup, will clear your sinuses and soothe your soul. In a city where people eat dim sum as often as cheeseburgers, it takes something special to stand out. Jeni’s dumplings are done right – delicate wraps and flavourful, not soggy stuffings – with a Texas tang of jalapeno in the gingery homemade soy sauce. Great food and great fun.
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For several years now, this chain restaurant has managed to maintain popularity with scenesters. Family style service, to encourage sharing; tableside preparations; and, very definitely, the lively bar, are key factors. Many regulars choose to make a dinner of drinks and appetisers rather than take chances with the uneven kitchen.
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