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Denver / Dining / Chinese


 

Denver’s best Chinese restaurant, the Imperial has a well- deserved loyal following. Its secret is great food and great service. The atmosphere is elegant but unpretentious. White table cloths and wine pairings distinguish the Imperial from the competition, while signature dishes include scallion pancakes, boneless Shanghai duck, Chilean sea bass, sweet and sour sesame chicken, and whole Dungeness crab. There are trendier Chinese restaurants, but none that can match the Imperial’s food.

 

Little Ollie’s serves up a pretty standard Chinese fare, but distinguishes itself with its fresh ingredients and preparation. Entrées have a lot of crisp vegetables – including some, like asparagus, that don’t often appear in Chinese dishes. Some dishes are heavy on the garlic, but the sesame chicken, Yushan beef and Kung Pao dishes are safe bets. Little Ollie’s is busy almost every night, so expect to wait for a table. The large sidewalk patio makes this a particularly popular choice when the weather permits.

 

This is not your typical Chinese restaurant, and Chairman Mao would roll over in his grave at one glimpse of this monument to Western decadence. The ultra-hip crowd at Mao’s bar could overshadow the food if it weren’t so innovative and exquisite. Nothing is conventional about Mao, from the soft-core porn videos displayed behind the bar to the entries prepared in a style unique to Mao.

 

A chain of good Chinese restaurants is a bit of an oxymoron, but PF Chang’s has developed a winning formula, part of which is to provide something for everyone. The extensive menu includes Cantonese, Szechwan and Hunan dishes, and everything looks great, and most items are delicious. Helpful waiting staff will help you navigate the dizzying array of selections. It’s good that all the restaurants have large bars, because you can expect a long wait for your table.