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This vibrant Nuevo Latino eatery is a neighbourhood favourite featuring tableside guacamole presentation – mashing up avocado to a desired spice level in a mortar made of volcanic rock. Entrees highlight traditional regional specialities like snapper Veracruzana and grilled quail on a sugar cane spear. Crowds can be thick at times so wait time can vary, despite reservations – the perfect opportunity for another killer margarita.
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It’s always a good sign when the chef’s [name] translates as 'generous’. But chef Genoroso 'Geno’ Bahena could also be known as the 'King of Moles’. His mastery of these complex sauces is complete, renowned and on full display at this upscale, white-table-cloth restaurant. There’s red mole, black mole and even a mole made with apricots. Although the atmosphere says street fair, the prices say uptown. No moles were hurt in the writing of this review.
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Chef/owner Rick Bayless has lead the charge to bring the authentic, healthy flavours of Mexican food to America’s table. Frontera Grill shows his casual side, with a fiesta-like atmosphere, a rustic offering of grilled fare and moles, and a no reservations policy for parties smaller than five. Next door, Rick ups the ante with Topolobampo’s fine dining format. There’s fine art on the walls, and the regional specialities are so special that many of ingredients were specially grown or prepared just for the restaurant.
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