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Chagin was an enigmatic, 19th-century Russian architect who moved to Vilnius and designed and lived in the building where this restaurant is today, as well as the austere, grandiose blocks surrounding it. Apart from two tables by the glass-fronted entrance, most of the Cagino is a stoney cavern below ground. It’s a suitable venue for earthy, authentic Russian dishes like pelmeni, pancakes, cows’ kidneys and soup in a bun. All should be washed down with a few hundred grammes of imported Russian vodka.
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Finjan is the pioneer in Vilnius for good, well-priced Middle Eastern food in a very relaxed atmosphere. Edge carefully to your table in the small, but cosy dining room past the gyrating bellydancers and the sabre-armed chef at the serving hatch. Order the delicious hummus as a starter or side dish and aromatic chunks of shoarma or falafel with lashings of spicy sauce. The desserts, such as vanilla mousse, are also excellent. When you leave, your head will be swimming with exotic delight.
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The prime location by the cathedral is just one of the charms of this eaterie. The Literatai is a survivor; it’s where the poet Czeslaw Milosz watched the Red Army tanks roll in from his café table in 1941. Besides the history it’s got candlelit tables, fresh fl owers, illustrious seafood from a Swedish chef and excellent service. Oh, and the best business lunches in town.
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Time for a medieval feast! Ravenous carnivores will rush to this cavernous gothic cellar, which is guarded by a stuffed bear. All sorts of game feature on the menu, from wild boar, elk and bear to beaver, and are deliciously cooked to traditional recipes. Place your trust in the know-how and skill of the chef. The availability of some of the dishes depends on the hunting season. Tall people have to effectively crawl up and down the narrow stairs.
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A coup for light eaters, Mano Guru ‘my guru’ takes its cue from the world’s plethora of minimalist veggie restaurants. Only it’s not quite vegetarian. The 46 salads you have to wade through on the menu are fortunately broken down into subsections: cheese, meat, fi sh, vegetable and dessert salads. Then there are the soups—one for each day of the week. Go in on a Tuesday for the delectable coconut milk, spicy chicken, shrimp and spinach soup. The chill-out muzak is pacy, the tables low, the décor simple and precise. The state-sponsored Guru is something of a social event too, since the polished, well-mannered staff are all rehabilitated ex-junkies.
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