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Tiny, cliquey and so nondescript from outside as to be barely visible from the street, L’Osteria is far from the m’as tu vu (see and be seen) of the large trendy restaurants yet nonetheless draws a clientele that includes film stars and politicians. Try dishes such as tagliatelle with ceps or one of the risottos and you’ll see why. Though pricey, this is truly memorable traditional Italian cooking, based on age-old principles of simplicity and fine ingredients.
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