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Established over 20 years ago, 39 Steps has seen other restaurants fall in and out of fashion, while remaining perennially in favour itself. While the interior is pleasant enough, there’s no question that what draws people to this Manchester institution is the quality of the food. The fi sh dishes here are quite sublime and come in generous portion sizes that one only comes to expect in the north of England. Daily specials are chalked on a blackboard so large it dwarfs the waiting staff as they drag it unceremoniously to your table. A brilliantly eccentric little restaurant.
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One of the newest additions to Manchester’s culinary scene, Cotton House is above all things ambitious. The grand design includes 20-foot metal drapes which separate the tables making for a dramatic setting. The menu is no less ambitious, drawing from culinary traditions from around the globe. Seared scallops are good as are all the fi sh dishes and the service is quite excellent. If the Cotton House fails anywhere it has to be in the sheer variety of its dishes, which can leave one slightly disoriented.
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Recently voted Manchester’s fi nest restaurant, Greens has been servicing the city’s vegetarian population for many years. Set in the heart of the fashionable Didsbury region of Manchester, it prides itself on its exciting and innovative approach to vegetarian cooking. Dishes are hearty and, unlike some other restaurants of this type, there is a distinct lack of worthiness. The potato puri is good while the mossaman curry is excellent, abounding in fresh greens and nuts.
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The three decades that have passed since the 1970s do not seem to have left their mark on Mottram’s. While the food is good, it reminds us how far Britain has come in terms of cuisine. The fish cakes are sturdy if somewhat lacking in flavour and a steak cooked medium wouldn’t qualify as anything but well done in any other establishment. That said, it offers the best meal you will find this close to the airport, and the service is excellent.
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Housed in what was a Habitat home furnishings shop many moons ago, The Restaurant Bar and Grill has much in common with its predecessor. Meals have a minimal aesthetic, and this eaterie certainly brings affordable luxury to Manchester’s masses. Lemon-infused swordfi sh, king prawn risotto and chicken roasted in fennel and white wine are some of the signature dishes. All are extremely good, and the atmosphere is upbeat without ever becoming raucous. Classy and comfortable without being even slightly pretentious, this is a serious restaurant.
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