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The recently opened Obsidian is quietly tucked away in the basement of the Arora International hotel. The chef uses mainly local produce to excellent effect. The pea and ham soup is the perfect comfort food, lamb served with creamy mash and onion gravy again soothes the battered soul, and Manchester tart takes you back to your school days—in a good way! This is the destination restaurant of the moment for the city’s 25–35 age group.
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Italian food as it should be; generous in portion and sumptuous. Piccolinos knows its stuff and is by far the best Italian restaurant in the city. The risotto with wild mushrooms is generous, while the carpaccio of beef is mouthwateringly tender. The menu includes all the old favourites and the wine list shows some imaginative touches, including some excellent and unusual southern Italian whites.
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Smart Stock is housed in what was once Manchester’s old stock exchange, and while the purpose of the building may have changed, its clientele certainly hasn’t. Stock is the archetypal business lunch venue. The service is attentive, the Italian menu familiar and the atmosphere subdued. While the rustic Italian breads are excellent, it has to be said that the rest of the kitchen’s offerings are somewhat lacking. The cuts of meat could be better and presentation lacks forethought. Desserts, on the other hand, are universally good, ranging from classic tiramisu to a selection of excellent Italian cheeses.
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A second home for Manchester’s glitterati, The River Restaurant serves excellent modern European food in tranquil surroundings. Its customers are debonair, and dressing to impress is certainly the order of the day. The lobster is delicately prepared and can be served with a choice cut of steak for those who mourn the passing of ‘surf and turf’ in quality establishments. The cellar is quite staggering in its range and the service faultless, making it one of the city’s premier destinations.
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