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Established over 20 years ago, 39 Steps has seen other restaurants fall in and out of fashion, while remaining perennially in favour itself. While the interior is pleasant enough, there’s no question that what draws people to this Manchester institution is the quality of the food. The fi sh dishes here are quite sublime and come in generous portion sizes that one only comes to expect in the north of England. Daily specials are chalked on a blackboard so large it dwarfs the waiting staff as they drag it unceremoniously to your table. A brilliantly eccentric little restaurant.
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One of the newest additions to Manchester’s culinary scene, Cotton House is above all things ambitious. The grand design includes 20-foot metal drapes which separate the tables making for a dramatic setting. The menu is no less ambitious, drawing from culinary traditions from around the globe. Seared scallops are good as are all the fi sh dishes and the service is quite excellent. If the Cotton House fails anywhere it has to be in the sheer variety of its dishes, which can leave one slightly disoriented.
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Recently voted Manchester’s fi nest restaurant, Greens has been servicing the city’s vegetarian population for many years. Set in the heart of the fashionable Didsbury region of Manchester, it prides itself on its exciting and innovative approach to vegetarian cooking. Dishes are hearty and, unlike some other restaurants of this type, there is a distinct lack of worthiness. The potato puri is good while the mossaman curry is excellent, abounding in fresh greens and nuts.
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Perhaps Manchester’s fi nest restaurant, Le Mont is stunning in every aspect, and well deserves its excellent reputation. Housed in the imposing glass structure of the Urbis Center, its 15th floor position affords panoramic views over the city. The food balances robust flavours with delicate presentation, incorporating the grand legacy of French cuisine while remaining contemporary in touch. The lamb cooked in different rustic styles is a delight, and the impressive wine list is well-chosen. The service is uniformly excellent, making a meal at Le Mont a top-notch experience in every way.
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Big, rustic French flavours are the order of the day at the Malmaison hotel restaurant. The menu wisely turns its back on the more intricate tendencies of contemporary French cuisine in favour of big, bold favorites. The steak and chips is excellent, as are the oysters, and rice pudding to finish leaves you with a warm glow of satisfaction. The cellar is also excellent, encouraging the jovial atmosphere that resonates through the main dining room.
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