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London / Dining / Asian


 

Restaurateur Iqbal Wahhab’s elegant and tasteful blend of Victorian gothic and cinnamon-coloured modernism, with its distinctly clubby feel, breaks all the rules of the traditional Indian restaurant with aplomb. Chef Vivek Singh offers swordfish with mustard and honey and black cod and king scallop kofta with citrusy Kerala sauce. The Cinnamon Club Bar downstairs is all dazzling white walls, graceful arches and coffee-coloured leather sofas, with a large TV screen playing Bollywood videos.

 

One wonders what Notting Hill did before E&O, which is an institution if ever there was one. The crown of the Will Ricker empire, this pan-Asian establishment does fashionable food like nowhere else, offering a menu packed with twists on sushi and superb specials. Make sure you have the chilli salt squid, the prawn and chive dumplings and the rock shrimp tempura. A marvelous wine list is matched with great cocktails, which you can enjoy in the adjoining bar.

 

Dating couples, corporate diners and a celebrity smattering sit cheek by jowl at London’s most Sex And The City-type hotspot. Most agree with Michelin’s verdict on the food—Hakkasan takes Chinese cooking to a new level and the results are exceptional. Lunchtime dim sum, in particular, is eye and taste bud opening, from a chive dumpling of tongue-pricking freshness to sea-fresh parcels of prawns and scallops. Fans claim the evening a la carte is expensive but worth it. The bar is certainly the place to meet younger ladies who like having drinks bought for them—it can all get a little distasteful, actually. Alan Yau’s hotter, younger sister restaurant Yauatcha is now stealing the show (16-17 Broadwick Street, Soho, Tel: 7494 8888). Go for tea or dim sum and you will be impressed.

 

There is a no booking policy for tables of less than six, so enjoy the wait and kick back in the divine ground-floor bar with London’s beautiful people. Virtually all the dishes on the menu have been freshly created by owner Nobu Matsuhisa and executive chef Mark Edwards specifically for this site. The place is beautifully designed and boasts a terrifically buzzy bar (see Nightlife), a destination in itself.

 

Giving Mr Nobu a run for his money in the 'who gets to be the Japanese giant of London’ race is Rainer Becker, executive chef and proprietor of Zuma in Knightsbridge—a restaurant which, although amazing on the food front, can be hideous on the staff and clientele count. So go to its baby brother Roka instead. Inside, the decor is surprisingly plain, with a central robata grill forming the focal point of the dining room. The cooking is excellent and you’ll be hard pressed to find a more 'It’ restaurant.

 
 
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