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Just a few metres down the road from Pap’Açorda, 1º de Maio is much less fashionable and noticeably proud of its 57-year tradition. Among its regulars are artists, writers, journalists and politicians, such as two-time Portuguese President Mário Soares. The menu features traditional Portuguese food at affordable prices, including John Dory with Açorda, swordfish with garlic or fried rabbit with clams. Advance booking recommended.
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Situated on the riverside opposite Santa Apolonia Station and close to Lux nightclub, fashionable Bica do Sapato is the place to see and be seen. The eatery is made up of three sections: a cafeteria where less elaborate dishes are served at lower prices, a stylishly decorated restaurant featuring modern Portuguese cuisine and, on the first floor, a sushi bar. Popular is the sushi buffet night on Wednesdays, when reserving in advance is necessary. One of the Bica do Sapato’s owners is American actor and Portugal lover John Malkovich.
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O fiel amigo (the faithful friend) is the Portuguese term of endearment for what is considered to be their national dish bacalhau, or dried cod. The saying goes that the Portuguese have 365 recipes for bacalhau, one for each day of the year. More than 20 of these, from different regions of the country, are on the menu at Casa do Bacalhau, a restaurant almost entirely dedicated to the locally beloved dish. Examples are bacalhau Good Friday-style and bacalhau espíritual. There’s a different dish every day for lunch, at an attractive price.
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Cervejaria da Trindade is a restaurant and, at the same time, a monument. Established in 1836, it is Portugal’s oldest cervejaria or traditional beer hall. According to many, it is also the most beautiful one, mainly because of the spectacular 19th century azulejos (tiles) on the walls of the spacious, high-ceiling rooms. Formally part of the city’s cultural heritage, the historic eatery is open daily until 2am, which is why many use it for after-theatre supper. Specialities include various kinds of steaks, grilled fish and seafood.
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One of the survivors of the modernisation wave that hit Lisbon in the 80s, Pap’Açorda is still one of the buzziest and busiest places in town. There is excitement in the air in this Bairro Alto classic, with its core clientele of local celebs, fashionistas and interior designers. Try the house speciality, Açorda Real, a bread and shellfish stew, or the entrecôte with a sauce of fresh herbs, or the lamb chops, all Portuguese style with a modern touch. Reservations are made for either 8.30 or 10.30pm, with the latter shift being most in demand.
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