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Gunnar Hinz didn’t hesitate before taking over the Tafelhaus, a well-established restaurant run until recently by Michelin-starred chef Christian Rach (see below). With seating for 34 guests only, the re-christened ‘Das Kleine Rote’ deserves to become a landmark on Hamburg’s gastronomic map. Classic French haute cuisine gains a strong northern German undertone thanks to regional produce. Fresh seasonal bounty can be enjoyed in a set menu of four, fi ve or six courses, and in a manageable choice of around 10 à la carte meals.
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Established four decades ago, Fischereihafen is popular among local luminaries, politicians and locals. It’s arguably the best seafood restaurant in town. Choice varies with the day’s catch. While the menu changes daily, there are some dishes you should try not to miss. The turbot fi llet on cabbage in a frothed lobster sauce with truffl e-infused potato mash is divine. Fischereihafen also has the sort of large wine cellar that you’d expect from a top-notch eatery.
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Hardly haute cuisine, but locals fl ock here for the unpretentious, delicious food and no-nonsense service. While meat dishes have crept onto the menu, this is primarily a fi sh restaurant that has the basics down to a fi ne art, and sauces enhance rather than overpower the fi sh. The creamy lobster soup is particularly good value. With its brightly coloured dining area and extravagant chandeliers this is a fun place to dine.
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Now that Michelin-starred chef Christian Rach is settled into new premises, he’s drawing the fashion-conscious crowd ever eager to dine along the Elbe river. but even Hamburg’s gastronomes are asking themselves whether the restaurant is worth its astronomical prices. The cuisine remains a well-blended mix of classical and modern French, with strong infl uences from other parts of the world. The restaurant also boasts an imposing wine list. Rach’s meals are brilliant, imaginative assaults on the palate—but they’re an assault on the wallet too.
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