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Hamburg / Dining


 

At this upscale, romantic restaurant on the harbour’s waterfront, chef Matthieu Le Stunff Puillon dishes up sumptuous seafood and game mixing Mediterranean and Asian styles. Try the cod wrapped in banana leaves with eucalyptus and shallot marmalade. The terrace, situated directly over the water, is a glamourous spot from which to watch passing ships and tugboats.

 

This stylish, fine French restaurant is a great place to unwind over a glass of good wine and an exquisitely prepared meal. Traditional French dishes like cod Provençal and calf’s liver à la Lyonnaise are hard to beat. But the cuisine with a distinctly Alsace flavour also shouldn’t be missed. Chez Alfred also has delicious desserts; there’s no point trying to resist the crème brûlée. The place has charming staff to boot.

 

Sure it’s located on a rather suspect street, but the pasta dishes are great. The grilled fi sh is also a good choice. Largely, you’ll fi nd this place serves good Italian food at a reasonable price. The unprepossessing façade, unchanged since 1905, opens onto crowded rooms that fi ll quickly. Cuneo can get loud at times and the service can be a little rough around the edges.

 

Gunnar Hinz didn’t hesitate before taking over the Tafelhaus, a well-established restaurant run until recently by Michelin-starred chef Christian Rach (see below). With seating for 34 guests only, the re-christened ‘Das Kleine Rote’ deserves to become a landmark on Hamburg’s gastronomic map. Classic French haute cuisine gains a strong northern German undertone thanks to regional produce. Fresh seasonal bounty can be enjoyed in a set menu of four, fi ve or six courses, and in a manageable choice of around 10 à la carte meals.

 

Established four decades ago, Fischereihafen is popular among local luminaries, politicians and locals. It’s arguably the best seafood restaurant in town. Choice varies with the day’s catch. While the menu changes daily, there are some dishes you should try not to miss. The turbot fi llet on cabbage in a frothed lobster sauce with truffl e-infused potato mash is divine. Fischereihafen also has the sort of large wine cellar that you’d expect from a top-notch eatery.

 
 
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