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Chopskie Jadlo (Peasants’ Fare) has been a runaway success, so much so that they now have three restaurants in Cracow, one north of the square (*listed here), one just to the south, and one between Kazimierz and the Old Town. The formula is simple: rustic décor, lashings of turquoise paint on the walls, and straight-forward, well-cooked food. Prices are not extortionate, and waitresses are attired in dainty folk costume. You may be surprised by the onthe-house lard and crackling pot, but tuck in if you’re a meat-eater, it’s much tastier than it looks.
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Hotel restaurants can often be rather dull, over-priced places, but this little gem has a plenty of aces up its sleeve. To start, there’s the marvellous setting – the showpiece is an ornate Renaissance wooden ceiling. Copernicus offers a modern take on Polish classics (with a smattering of International dishes too) generally delivered with a light touch. In summer you can reserve a table on the rooftop terrace, which has one of the best views in the city. The wine list is mainly Italian.
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A more relaxed alternative to the former, Guliwer has a cosy, rustic feel, with ochre walls and dried fl owers hanging from the ceiling. It’s located on one of Cracow’s most charming streets. Steak, which is often rather poor in Cracow, is consistently good here. House wine is also above average, and there’s plenty more to choose from if you want go à la carte.
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If you’ve had enough of old-fashioned charm, or quirky Polish eccentricity, then Metropolitan could be just the thing. Just off the Market Square, it’s a modern, comfortable restaurant that offers a panoply of delicious, beautifully presented dishes from around the world. Metropolitan has bright, friendly service, English newspapers and magazines, and it’s also one of only two places in Cracow to do a full English breakfast.
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‘Eat, drink and loosen your belt’ was the motto of Poland’s 17th-century nobles. This hearty, wooden tavern is tailor-made for such behaviour, serving up all the classic Polish fare. It’s a fi ve-minute taxi ride from the centre but worth the ride for the décor alone. The restaurant may be pricier than the Chopskie Jadlo ventures, but the décor here – a replica of a 17th-century manor house, complete with beams and suits of armour – wins hands down. The food is based on ancient recipes found in Jagiellonian University archives – not for gourmets but a fun evening out.
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