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A true Italian stallion. The coolest place to dine is the back room, which is decorated with black-and-white photos of film icons with a connection to Italy. However, anyone sensitive to smoke should opt for the front, where painted tiles from the days when the place was a bakery still take pride of place. The antipasti, pasta and pizza pies are wonderful, eaten amid warm service and hot crowds.
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Alessio Castriota, from Rome, has also muscled in on Ixelles this year with a winebar he promises will strip away all stale Italian clichés. No ceramic plates on the walls, cheap plonk or pizzas here; he wants us to try little-known regional dishes like meat and fish without all those rich sauces, light risottos and different types of focaccia. The extensive wine list includes 40 reds, 30 whites and 10 grappas.
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Napolitano Enzo Marino’s new winebar is an intimate snug where wine lovers are in their element. Racks of wooden shelves filled with wine line the walls and barrels dangle from the ceiling evoke traditional wine methods. Marino introduces diners to the best of artisanal wines from his homeland, served with simple but tasty Italian dishes like carpaccio and pasta while lounge music and jazz set the mood. With only 24 places, reservations are essential.
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