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Bratislava / Dining / Italian


 

You might not expect to find a high-quality Italian restaurant in an office building, but Al Dente has many such surprises in store. Despite the streams of pedestrians, its summer patio is shielded by a stockade of planters and trees. The kitchen is equally as adept with pizza as with vitello alla piccata, and the comfortable wickerwork chairs and brickwork decor bear no trace of their administrative surroundings.

 

Now in its third year, Au Café is the reincarnation of a coffee shop that stood in the same place in 1827. Situated against the backdrop of the huge Sad Janka Krala park on the south side of the Danube, Au Café has a posh-but-relaxed feel and, with its terrace, kids’ playground and stunning view of the Old Town, it can’t be beat on a sunny day. Its authentic Italian menu attracts many business and political regulars.

 

Although it’s a relative newcomer on the scene, the Marrol’s Messina is vying with the Danube, Devin and Dukla hotels in the high-end dining category. The originally all-Italian menu has branched out under chef Ladislav Nemeth to include international dishes, but the stately surroundings and attentive service haven’t been compromised. The pastas are consistently excellent and the wine list deep in international classics under sommelier Branislav Pospis, who shares his duties here with the Dukla.

 

Paparazzi is owned by the same people who operate the UFO and People’s restaurants, and there is definitely a common thread here—expensive, contemporary and quality cuisine. This restaurant has retained a solid diplomatic and upper civil servant clientele, due as much to its ambience as to its food.

 

Bratislava’s most formal Italian dining and, to some connoisseurs, its best (the Danube’s battle with the next-door Devin hotel is waged on many fronts, culinary included). A centrally located grill works on diners with both visual and olfactory temptations, and as the pepper steak attests, there’s as much go as show to this restaurant.