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For fantastic Japanese food in an atmospheric, old restaurant, head to 33 Jian-tang, which is [name]d after a famous temple in Kyoto. There are no menus. You get what the chef is serving at any given moment. Let them know when you are filling up so they stop bringing you dishes. The owner is a well-known eccentric who is fond of getting drunk and bellowing out show tunes to the amusement of her many admirers. She also has about 17 Persian cats tied up with satin leashes throughout the restaurant.
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Along with Cosi a Cosi (on Dunhua South Roud, near Zhongxiao East Road), Alleycat’s is Taipei’s most revered pizza joint. The bright red walls and cellar atmosphere, as well as some of the cheapest prices in town make this little gem shine. It’s always packed, so call ahead or try to miss the 7pm- 8.30pm rush.
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One of the last of a dying breed, Apocalypse Now is the top of the food chain when it comes to Taipei’s once ubiquitous beer houses. An endless supply of beer fuels the festive, boisterous crowds. The sound system is top notch as is the dj, though the music is rarely intolerably loud, so it is still possible to converse during dinner. Apocalypse Now draws not only the occasional local movie star or singer, but also those from Japan, South Korea and Hong Kong—not that you will have a clue as to who the hell they are. The food is simple, but well prepared and attractively arranged, courtesy of a Japanese food consultant. Owner Dale Ong brings in all the chillies from China’s Sichuan province, so flavours are more complex and less brassy than those spiced with the local variety. The stinky bean curd is one of the best in town—if you dare!
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Bagel Bagel, set in an old Chinese- style house, decorated with Argentine antiques, is highly popular with the diplomatic corps as well as media and advertising executives. The fusion cuisine masterfully blends East and West, Italian and Chinese, Japanese and French to turn out sophisticated, balanced dishes. Little alcoves provide added privacy, and popular jazz favourites like Billie Holiday, Frank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald accentuate the cosy gemutlichkeit of this little charmer.
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Set in a tastefully decorated hotel in Beitou, a hot-springs district north of Taipei, Chikurintei is one of the best restaurants. The décor is light and pleasant, the service moderately good, the prices reasonable and the food quality sufficient to pass muster with all but the most finicky of Japanese food fans. The sushi and sashimi are spot on and the restaurant has excellent sirloins, which you grill yourself at the table. A limited selection of wine along with sake and beer is available at reasonable prices.
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