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Chiu Chow cuisine is a sub-division of the Cantonese school from the coast around Shandong. It is very popular in Hong Kong but hard to find outside southern China. This is a great place to sample some of the regional specialities, such as cold crab, e-fu noodles or chicken in chin jiu sauce. Wash it down with the concentrated caffeine of Iron Buddha tea, a brew that makes espresso seem mild.
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This has long been a raucously noisy Cantonese institution, serving good dim sum from old-fashioned trolleys wheeled around by uniformed staff. City Hall is Hong Kong Island’s civic centre, and the restaurant is a vast, well-lit space with views across the harbour. Much loved by tourist parties and local family groups alike, but not for the individual diner.
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Dynasty’s palatial dining hall, with its tasteful decor and selected antiques, forms the nightly backdrop for a recital of classical Chinese music played on the traditional erhu and pipa. But don’t let that detract from the food. The chef is a highly regarded barbecue expert, but the kitchen excels in all areas. Look for seasonal delicacies, particularly the snake soup in winter.
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Celebrity-owner Yeung Koon Yat is the king of bao yu (preserved abalone from northern Honshu in Japan), the undisputed master of their lengthy and complicated preparation. Local food lovers will pay huge sums for a taste. The bao yu are bank-breakingly expensive, but other Cantonese dishes are, in contrast, surprisingly reasonable. The opulent kitsch decor features photos of Yeung pressing palms with an endless procession of dignitaries, celebrities and politicians.
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Hoi King Heen offers endlessly creative fine dining for those in the know. Chef Leung is justly famous for his ability to incorporate novel ingredients into his classic Cantonese repertoire. Take note of the chef’s recommendations as the dishes represent his naturalistic approach. The menu changes on a seasonal basis but never fails to delight.
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