For a city of its population (less than 200,000, including six neighbouring municipalities), Reykjavík has a lot of space and is spread out over an area larger than Manhattan Island. To the north of the city is Faxaflói Bay with the majestic Mount Esja looming on the other side. 101 Reykjavík The city centre, generally known by its post code, is relatively compact and can be walked on foot in good weather. Most of the city’s hotels, restaurants and nightlife are located here. It is also the home of the Althing (Parliament), City Hall and many of the main attractions. The best shopping streets, Laugavegur and Skólavördustígur, are also here.

Laugardalur Valley, Reykjavík’s main centre of recreation and sports, is about 3kms east of the city centre. It consists of three main areas: the Family Park, the Botanical Garden and the Petting Zoo (www.husdyragardur.is) where you can see most native species. Laugardalur is also home to Iceland’s largest thermal swimming complex called Laugardalslaug (www.laugardalslaug.is), a health spa and fitness centre, the city’s main sports hall and an ice-skating rink (www. laugardalsholl.is). It’s a great place for sports, having a picnic or just taking in the scenery. There are an increasing number of hotels and business appearing in this neighbourhood.

Vesturbær West of the city centre, this is primarily a trendy residential neighbourhood, but also home to the domestic airport, the National Museum and the University of Iceland. Nearby is Reykjavík’s main station for the public transport system in Iceland BSÍ (www.bsi. is ), with connecting buses for day trips and destinations all around the country. Öskjuhlíd Hill South-east of Vesturbær stands Öskjuhlíd hill and the space-age structure Perlan, one of Reykjavík’s best-known landmarks and an excellent place for a 360-degree panoramic view of the city. At the foot of the hill lies Nauthólsvík beach, where some of the city’s abundant hot water heats the sea, creating a beautiful lagoon with temperatures suitable for swimming on a hot summer’s day (hot being a relative term, of course). Kópavogur From Öskjuhlíd hill you can get a view over Reykjavík’s largest suburb. Kópavogur boasts Reykjavík’s largest shopping centre, a natural history museum and an excellent concert hall (www.kopavogur.is).

GETTING AROUND

The city centre can be covered on foot, but for longer journeys or when it’s particularly rainy and windy, you may want to take the bus or a taxi.

Yellow buses cruise the streets of Reykjavík and its suburbs. Strætó (Tel: 540 2700, www.bus.is), as the bus system is called by locals, runs from 7am (10am on Sundays) to 11pm or midnight daily, 2am on weekends, and costs 220 Króna for one journey (they don’t give change). The Reykjavík Tourist Card, available at the Tourist Information Office, includes unlimited travel on Reykjavík buses for from 24 to 72 hours, plus free admission to a number of museums, galleries and all thermal pools in the city.

Taxis are expensive, but a quick way of getting around. A journey within Reykjavík usually costs between 700 and 1,000 Króna. It is not possible to hail taxis from the street, you have to call to book (Tel: 553 3500, 561 0000 or 588 5522). Tipping is not required.

SHOPPING

Reykjavík has a lot to offer the shopper. Designer clothing is widely available, often at prices cheaper than in New York or London. There are numerous boutiques of striking Icelandic-designed clothing—try Spaksmannsspjarir for women or Indridi for men. Knitwear is also popular, especially the traditional Icelandic lopapeysa, a knitted sweater originally designed to keep fishermen and farmers warm outside but now a trendy fashion item.

Hand-made jewellery is very unique in Reykjavík. Designers will often create something original for a buyer, incorporating natural Icelandic stones like lava rock with gold or silver. The effect can be very eye-catching. Try Anna María Design or Ór Gullsmidir.

Other popular items include original art, books on the Icelandic sagas and nature, outdoor wear and music. While CDs are quite expensive in Reykjavík, there is probably a local group to satisfy all musical tastes, and a CD from a hard to pronounce Icelandic band makes a one-of-a-kind souvenir. For the best selection of Icelandic music, try 12 Tónar or Smekkleysa.

Most shops in the city centre are open 10am-6pm on weekdays and 11am-4pm on Saturdays. Some shops are also open on Sundays. For longer shopping hours, visit either Kringlan or Smáralind shopping centres.

The city centre is the main shopping area in Reykjavík. Most stores are clustered along two main streets. Laugavegur is lined with sophisticated shops carrying everything from funky Icelandic furs and fish-skin clothes to high-street fashion, eye wear and accessories. From Laugavegur up towards the unmistakable landmark that is Hallgrímskirkja, Skólavördustígur is jam-packed with art galleries, design studios, workshops and small boutiques selling Icelandic and international designs.

Kringlan mall (www.kringlan.is), about a 30-minute walk from the city centre, offers 36,000 square metres of department stores, clothing shops and music stores. Smáralind mall (www.smaralind.is) is a spacious modern shopping centre with around 70 shops and services and is situated in Reykjavík’s adjacent community of Kópavogur. You’ll also find the luxurious Smárabíó cinema there. Catch a bus to get to Smáralind, it takes 15 minutes from Reykjavík’s city centre.

Each weekend, the Kolaportid indoor flea market is packed with people selling everything from antiques and collectables to retro furniture and home appliances. It’s definitely quirky, but somewhat overrated. Purchases over 4,000 Króna are eligible for a 15% value-added tax rebate as long as you are taking them out of the country. Ask for the tax-back form when you make your purchase. For more information, see www.is.eurorefund.com.

THINGS TO DO

The best way to see the main sights of Reykjavík is to take a walk around the compact city centre. Start at the imposing Hallgrímskirkja church (www. hallgrimskirkja.is)—its 210-foot tower is a landmark. It costs 350 Króna to take a lift to the top for panoramic views over the city.

Walk down Skólavördustígur, window shopping as you go, and then left onto Laugavegur to head towards the older part of town. Here you’ll find the Althing (Parliament) and the small but beautiful Dómkirkjan church. The modernist City Hall is nearby on the corner of the peaceful Tjörnin Pond. When you’ve finished feeding the multitude of ducks, geese and swans basking on the water, go inside the building for a snack in the café or to look at the 76-square-metre relief map of Iceland. It may seem strange to recommend a visit to gaze at a map, but it is well worth it.

On the eastern side of Tjörnin Pond is the National Gallery of Iceland (www. listasafn.is), home to the country’s most valuable collection of 19th and 20th century Icelandic art, including several pictures by the renowned and eccentric painter Jóhannes Kjarval.

If you’re an art lover, the beautifully designed Reykjavík Art Museum (Hafnarhús branch) is also in the city centre, close to the harbour. The pride of this museum is the Erró collection, consisting of three thousand artworks by this extraordinary Icelandic pop artist (www.listasafnreykjavikur.is).

A five-minute walk south-west from the National Gallery is the National Museum of Iceland (www.natmus.is), re-opened in 2004 after a seven-year renovation.

EXCURSIONS

Every visitor to Iceland should try to see some of the country’s unique landscape. There are numerous trips available which take people to some of the natural wonders of the country. The best place for initial information is at the main Tourist Information Office on Adalstræti 2 (Tel: 590 1550, www.visitreykjavik.is, Email: info@visitreykjavik.is).

There are two main tour operators in Reykjavík: Reykjavík Excursions (Ida Building, Lækjargata 2a, Tel: 580 5434, www.re.is) and Iceland Excursions (Höfdatún 12, Tel: 540 1313, www. icelandexcursions.is). Both offer year-round trips on the most popular routes (Golden Circle and Blue Lagoon, see below). They also offer many other day trips from the capital, including riding 4x4s on a glacier and visiting small fishing villages.

The country’s most popular trip, the Golden Circle, takes a vaguely circular route around the best natural attractions near the capital. The main stops on this tour are the Gullfoss waterfall, the geothermal field at Haukadalur which is the site of the original Geysir, and Thingvellir National Park, the site of Iceland’s (and reputedly the world’s) first parliament, as well as a place where astonishing tectonic activities are taking place as the North American and European plates gradually separate. Tours covering this 300kms round trip take about 8 hours and operate daily.

The eerie blue waters of the Blue Lagoon are Iceland’s most visited tourist attraction. Situated in the middle of a lava field between Reykjavík and Keflavík Airport, the lagoon is an outdoor bathing area with plumes of steam rising from the chalky waters and an other-worldly atmosphere. The mineral-rich waters are said to be particularly healthy for the skin, and the Blue Lagoon offers a full range of skincare products to exploit this. It is open daily and has swimsuits and towels for hire. There are also tours that either go on day trips from Reykjavík or take weary travellers straight to the airport and home. The opportunity to see the world’s greatest mammals up close and personal is a tempting one for visitors to Reykjavík. Most whale watching companies boast a success rate of greater than 95% for a whale or dolphin sighting and free tours are offered if you don’t see a whale. Tours leave several times a day in summer and take about three hours, usually with a stop at Puffin Island. Try Elding Tours (Tel: 555 3565, Email: info@elding.is, www.elding. is) or Whale Safari and Puffin Island (Tel: 533 2660, Email: hafsulan@hafsulan.is, www.whalewatching.is). is actual riding time.

TOURIST TRAPS

Tourism in Iceland hasn’t yet reached a stage where there are obvious tourist traps. Some bemoan that the Blue Lagoon, about 40kms outside of Reykjavík, is overrated, but for many it is the highlight of their trip. The best thing to do if you’re not sure of something is simply to ask the locals. Almost everyone between nine and 90 speaks English fluently and will be honest.

CONVENTION CENTRES

The largest conference facility in Iceland is the Culture and Conference Centre (Hagatorg, Vesturbær, Tel: 897 8988), housed at the University of Iceland and with seating for up to 1,000 people. Smaller conferences and conventions can also be held at Borgarleikhúsid (City Theatre, Listabraut 3, Tel: 568 5500, www. borgarleikhusid.is) and Laugardalshöll (Engjavegur 8, Laugardalur, Tel: 553 8990, www.laugardalsholl.is). Hótel Nordica, Radisson SAS Hótel Saga and Grand Hótel Reykjavík are the hotels with the best conference facilities.