District I Often referred to as the Castle District, on the Buda side of the Danube, District I is one of Budapest’s oldest areas. It’s home to the city’s most famous tourist attractions, including the Fisherman’s Bastion, with its wonderful view over the Danube, Parliament and Pest, and the equally magnificent Buda Castle.

The cobbled streets of the Castle District are home to numerous tourist cafés and folklore gift shops selling their tacky wares, but this does little to detract from the fairytale-like charm of the area. District II Once the preserve of the city’s middle classes and nouveau riche, District II is also becoming quite a hotspot for shopping and entertainment. Home to the perfectly proportioned Mammut I and II shopping centres. Complete with multiplex cinema and an excellent choice of bars, restaurants and cafés, Mammut is one of the most pleasant of Budapest’s new shopping experiences. Tucked behind Mammut you will find the equally modern, but nonetheless tranquil Millenáris Park. The park hosts regular exhibitions and performances as well as boasting some of the best kept grass in Hungary.

District V The beating heart of Budapest’s downtown area, this is home to many of the city’s businesses, restaurants, cafés, pubs, clubs and most exclusive hotels, which jostle for the best Pest-side views along the banks of the Danube.

District VI Home to the world heritage site Andrássy Ut, a long avenue that leads down from the spectacular St Stephen’s Basilica to the stunning Hôsõk Tere (Heroes’ Square). The tree-lined street is often compared to a Parisian boulevard, thus earning the city the nickname the 'Paris of the East’.

District IX An increasingly trendy district and home to the fashionable walking street Raday utca. Lined with unpretentious cafés, bars and restaurants, this once working-class district is becoming the place to see and be seen. District XIV Another popular stop-off on the tourist trail. District XIV is home to Heroes’ Square, the fabulous Gundel and Robinson restaurants, Budapest Zoo, City Park and the Museum of Fine Arts. There is enough to fill an entire day in this part of town alone.

Margitsziget A tranquil retreat in the heart of the city, Margitsziget (Margaret Island) is a one-and-a-half-mile stretch of parkland in the middle of the Danube. It’s easy to reach on foot by tram across the odd-looking, three-spanned Margaret Bridge. The island boasts two swimming complexes, several restaurants and bars, plenty of children’s activities and country-style trails.

GETTING AROUND

Budapest has an excellent public transport system which, despite price rises in recent years, still offers exceptional value for money. Single journey tickets cost HUF 170 and can be used on any vehicle (including buses, trolley buses, trams, metro and overland HEV trains) within the city limits. A new ticket should be validated when changing vehicles or lines on the metro. Budapest’s public transport system is at times rather zealously patrolled by ticket inspectors who operate a zero tolerance approach to passengers who haven’t purchased or correctly validated their tickets. The current fine stands at HUF 2,000. Full details of the transport network can be found on www.bkv.hu.

With more than 7,000 taxis plying their trade on Budapest’s streets, it is very rare to find yourself waiting more than 10 minutes for a cab. As a rule it’s cheaper to book a taxi by telephone than to hail one on the street. City Taxi (Tel: 211 1111) and Fö Taxi (Tel: 222 2222) are among the more reputable firms and have English-speaking operators. Unless you want to risk an unscheduled sightseeing excursion around Budapest’s back streets and a grossly exaggerated fare, it is unwise to hail an unmarked or unknown cab. If you’re unsure, always check the price with the driver before setting off. Other reputable firms include Budataxi (Tel: 233 3333), Budapest Taxi (Tel: 433 3333), Taxi 2000 (Tel: 200 0000), Tele 5 Taxi (Tel: 355 5555), Rádiótaxi (Tel: 377 7777) and 6x6 Taxi (Tel: 266 6666).

SHOPPING

Visitors should banish any thoughts of communist-style shortages and bread queues to the dim and distant past. Budapest fully embraced capitalism more than 15 years ago and has the vast shopping palaces to prove it.

The main tourist shopping area is Vaci utca in District V. The street is lined with designer boutiques, gifts shops and luxury stores, as well as numerous bars and cafés. This is a great place to people-watch and also a bit of a hotspot for less scrupulous restaurateurs to over-charge for cheap bottles of house wine—always check the prices first.

The Grand Market on Fovam korut at the end of Vaci utca is a must for souvenir hunters. Friends and family back home are sure to appreciate a nice bottle of Hungarian wine, of which Tokaj is the most famous, or perhaps some traditional Hungarian salami. The city centre is also littered with antique shops and art galleries for those of you wanting to take home something with more than sentimental value. For those seeking advice on buying antiques in Hungary and, equally important, shipping them home safely, contact First European Shipping (Tel: 20 933 5240, www. firsteuropeanshipping.com).

THINGS TO DO

The fact that Hungarians have survived so many hardships over their 1,000-year history and still managed to retain their own unique language and culture is a testament to their strength of character. The last century was particularly cruel to the nation, with both fascism and Communism doing their best to crush the spirit of this proud country. For an insight into Hungary’s at times shameful, at times heroic and often desperate past, visit the House of Terror Museum (www.terrorhaza. hu) on Andrássy út 60. The address itself puts fear into the hearts of Hungarians of a certain age as the building was the headquarters of the ultra-right-wing Arrow Cross during the 1940s and then the communist-led Political Police. The museum now acts as a monument to those who suffered or were killed under the two regimes.

For another fascinating glimpse into Hungary’s Cold War past, visit the Statue Park, where the monuments to 40 years of Soviet dictatorship were laid to rest behind cold red-brick walls (Tel: 424 7500, www.szoborpark.hu).

For a truly unique perspective on the city, why not take a sightseeing trip by helicopter. Take in the Buda hills, the Danube and its islands, the domes of the Royal Palace, Parliament, Heroes’ Square and many other breathtaking sights during this once-in-a-lifetime 20-minute flight costing a cool HUF 86,247. If this is a little out of your budget, you could always take a traditional guided bus tour for HUF 5,180 (Tel: 317 7767, www. flyandbus.com).

Budapest is home to the world’s second largest synagogue (second only to New York). For an insight into the city’s rich Jewish culture and turbulent past, take a guided tour of Jewish Budapest. The tour, in English, German and Hebrew, explores the Great Synagogue, Wallenberg Park, the Jewish Cemetery and Jewish Museum (Tel: 462 0477, www.aviv.hu)

EXCURSIONS

Take the Suburban Train (HEV) from Batthyany ter to the attractive artists’ colony of Szentendre on the Danube bend. This relaxed settlement has something of a Mediterranean feel about it. Stroll the cobbled streets and grab a bargain at one of the town’s numerous arts and crafts stalls, or just sit back in the sunshine with a glass of wine and watch the world go by.

During the summer months, when the mercury levels start to rise, the people of Budapest retreat to the country or immerse themselves in the cool (but surprising shallow) waters of Lake Balaton. Balaton is Europe’s largest freshwater lake and is only a two-hour train ride from Budapest. Resorts around the lake vary from the hedonistic German techno disco town of Siofok, to the hilly retreat of Tihany or the healing waters of Hévíz. A regular train service runs between Budapest and the lake’s resorts (www.elvira.hu for times and prices).

For more information about resorts and hotels, visit www.balaton.net.

TOURIST TRAPS

On the whole Budapest is very safe. As a visitor you’re unlikely to face any serious problems unless you go looking for them. The key to enjoying a trouble-free stay in Budapest is to use your common sense.

If, for example, you are approached by an attractive member of the opposite sex who perhaps invites you into a nearby bar for a quiet drink, ask yourself one question: “Have I suddenly become irresistible to the opposite sex?” The answer is no. You have just been targeted by the infamous local con known as the consumption girl. You will undoubtedly share several very pleasant drinks at grossly inflated prices before your new-found friend leaves you with the bill and perhaps an escorted walk to the nearest cash machine.

Likewise, gentlemen should take extreme caution if patronising the kind of premises where women prefer their dance partners to be in a seated position. Always check the cost of the drinks before ordering. Clubs and bars must by law display an up-to-date price list. Once a drink has been poured, you are breaking the law by refusing to pay for it—no matter how exorbitant the charge.

If you do find yourself in trouble, you can always call the special English-language police hotline, Tel: 438 8080. For a full list of embassy numbers, check out The Budapest Sun Online’s Visitors’ Guide on www.visitorsguide.hu.

CONVENTION CENTRES

The HungExpo Centre, Expo ter 1 (Albertirsai ut 10), is Hungary’s largest exhibition and conference centre and is host to numerous high-profile, international events throughout the year. Tucked away in District X, the HungExpo Centre is a good distance from most of the city’s premium hotels, but it’s within easy reach by car or public transport. For full details of up-and-coming events at HungExpo, visit www.hungexpo.hu.